Mr. Editor, - On reading the communication of your lady contributor, "Frances Mary," in your January number, I feel induced to take the reply to it, in part, out of your hands, believing that, though a professional florist, I can give a few plain directions on the subject, free from all that scientific mystification that your correspondent so much dreads. Instead, however, of treating of one particular plant at a time, as requested, I will class a few that require nearly similar treatment. Monthly Carnations, Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Monthly Roses, Variegated, Scented, and Scarlet Geraniums, form one class of parlor plants, the most beautiful varieties of which (to begin with) can be purchased from the growers at an average of twenty-five cents each.

Geraniums.

Geraniums.

1. Senior Wrangler 2..Diophantus. 3. The Moor. for THE HORTICULTURIST, Published by C.M.SAXTON, New York.

But here is where the danger begins, the plants from the florist's establishment being grown by being placed on tables covered with sand or saw-dust, and the whole atmosphere of the green-house teeming with moisture; in the direct transition from there to the dry atmosphere of the parlor, the first experience of the purchaser is, that the plants droop, and then, perhaps, lose their leaves. To obviate this, let the purchaser, in selecting the plants, choose healthy plants in small pots, that is, small in proportion to the size of the plant; and on getting them home, at once "shift" or change them into pots two inches more in diameter than those they are growing in. The process of shifting is simply to invert the plant, tapping the pot gently so as not to break the ball of earth containing the roots, then put about an inch of earth over the bottom of the new pot, place the plant thereon directly in the centre, which will leave a space of one inch all around to be filled in with soil, moderately firm; give a gentle watering with a sprinkling pot, and the process is done.

There is a great deal of nonsense written about special kinds of soils for particular varieties of plants; if convenient, get some soil from the heap of the nearest florist; if not, use the soil from your garden borders; it will make but little difference which, if the other conditions are attended to. Above all else, avoid tampering with guano or other fertilizers in the culture of parlor plants. I know that there is a mysterious belief abroad of the power of these useful agents, attributing to them magical effects, approximating almost to that vegetable phenomenon, Jonah's Gourd; but be not tempted; let them alone.

The next thing to be observed is heat and light. The temperature of the room where plants are grown may range from 40° to 60° with fire heat, without material injury; but if a uniform temperature of 50° can be maintained, so much the better. The exposure should be southeast, south, or southwest, so as to obtain the greatest degree of light. The plants should be turned round once a week, to prevent them becoming one-sided by being drawn to the light.

Our rule for watering plants is a very old one, and can not be improved upon; it is, "water only when the plant is dry, and then give it abundance." To know when a plant is in a condition requiring water, the earth will appear lighter on the surface of the pot; a slight experience will soon enable any one to detect this at a glance. During the cold winter months plants will not require water more than twice a week. In the late spring months, at least once a day in bright weather. Saucers for standing the plants in, should only be used for keeping the flower table or stand clean; they should never be filled with water unless the plants are very vigorous and the weather warm.

To prevent the plants from being attacked by green fly, which will prove quickly destructive, steep tobacco in water until it gets to be about the color of ordinary strong tea; then with a syringe or sprinkling pot, sprinkle the leaves under and above; or, if convenient, dip them over head in a tub filled with the liquid, once in two or three weeks. Red spider, another pest to contend with, can best be prevented by frequent syringings or immersions of the plants in water. But where the plants stand on tables covered with moss kept damp, there is likely to be no necessity for such practice, as the evaporation from the moss will prevent the insect from getting a foot-hold, a dry atmosphere being neces-sary for its existence. Air in cold weather should only be given from the top of the sash, and then not until the thermometer indicates 60° or 70°; in mild weather, when the outside temperature, in the shade, is 60° or 70°, air may be given directly on the plants.

One of the simplest and safest methods of rooting cuttings or slips is what we gardeners call the saucer system. Take a saucer and cover the bottom with sand or soil, (it is of no consequence what kind;) pour in enough water to make a thin mud of it; then cut off slips of young shoots from two to four inches long, removing the lower leaves, so that about an inch of the stem can be inserted in the mud ; place them just thick enough to have the leaves about touch each other; place the saucers thus filled close to the light, nothing more being required but to keep the soil in the saucers in this half-liquid state, by adding water when necessary, and in from ten to twenty days (according to the temperature of the room) the cuttings will be rooted. This mode of propagating is much practiced by florists whose business is not of sufficient extent to admit of a regular propagating house.

In closing, I may remark that all of the above directions are equally applicable to the treatment of plants in the greenhouse or conservatory, in cases where no regular gardener is kept. Another class of plants suited to the parlor, are Camellias, Azaleas, Gardenias, Cacti, etc.; but as these require somewhat different treatment, they must form the subject of another paper.

[We are obliged to "A Jersey Florist" for having so promptly responded to Frances Mary. She will accept his article as an evidence that there are some florists who are quite ready to impart the information she so much needs, since he is a large and well-known grower of plants. We observe that he promises another paper; after that is given, we will take up some other portion of the subject. We would suggest that the Camellia and some similar plants be left till the parlor amateur has acquired a little experience. - Ed].