I have seen no really fine Geraniums in this country. The reason is obvious, and is this: The plants are not got into a fit state for blooming sufficiently early, and they are forced into bloom by the rapid increase of temperature before they have made and matured their proper growth. The consequence of this is, straggling plants and small flowers.

Let me recommend some amateurs of the flower to try the following plan: - At this time (early in February) many have their Geraniums in small pots, in which they were placed when cut down last fall Repot them at once into pots eight or nine inches across, which is large enough to grow a Pelargonium in perfection, although they may be produced larger in great pots. The compost for them - one-half old hot-bed manure, one-half good loam, with a small portion of sand if the loam is stiff Put one piece of broken pot over the drain hole, and then, for drainage, put about an inch, or rather more, in depth of lumps of stiff loam as large as walnuts. This is a valuable resource to the roots by and by. Then put in the compost and pot the plant without breaking the ball of roots, and press down the compost round the sides of the pot, moderately hard, with a potting stick Water them through, and put them near the glass in a house kept at about 50°. Give but little water until the roots have reached the sides of the pot - they will soon be seen at the drain-hole on turning up the pot Then increase the temperature very slightly, and syringe the plants every day.

As they grow, still keep them near the glass and pull the shoots down horizontally toward the edges of the pots all around and secure them to sticks. By degrees they may, most of them, be brought down nearly to touch the edge. The growth will in another month be rapid, and the shoots and leaves will increase much in size. By the end of March, or early in April, the foliage will be of large size and hang over and conceal much of the pot, and the plant will be filled up in the center by growth which the admission of light there (by the continued perseverance in tying out) has encouraged. Then the plant is formed -its growth vigorous, and it is fit to bloom. But this growth will require to be matured, and to secure perfection in the bloom the vigor of wood growth must be stopped. To effect that object, withhold water. Lay the syringe aside, for the present, altogether. Let the plants positively droop in the leaf from want of water, for a few hours, but not longer, or you will lose much of the lower leaves, which will turn yellow. Some judgment is required in this operation, but it is soon gained by short experience. When this check has been given, supply the plants with water, but in small quantities, comparatively, for a week, giving it at the root and not with the syringe.

The plants will immediately "knot" for bloom; and then, but not before, (still keeping them near the glass,) give them manure water twice a week, and plain water daily, if required, for as soon as the ends of the shoots indicate by their thickness that the bloom buds are forming, the supply of water must again be liberal as it. was at first. The old fashioned manure water, made by stirring up a spade full of old hot-bed in a pail of water, / know will answer, and you know the strength; but with guano, and its adulterations, you may not know, and may spoil your plants, although it is very good when properly used. The above manure water should be used clear and diluted with water till it is about the color that a crust of burnt bread two inches square will give to a glass of water in which it has stood five minutes. The next object is to encourage the growth of the bloom, branches, and buds, but not the foliage, which is best effected by giving water at the root, syringing only now and then to keep off dust, etc, (for if the syringe is much used in this state, the plants get straggling,) and by giving all the air possible. When the flower buds are just opening, some shade on the glass is necessary.

Open canvass, or close, coarse netting, is the best thing that I know of, because it does not altogether shut out the sun's rays.

I am aware that much must depend on locality and time of year, as to how far the above directions can be carried out. An experienced hand will do best to pot in December for his first set of plants, and in January for those to follow, because he can then stop the shoots (which, by the by, he should do, and let the plants break just just enough to show the eyes, in the small pots before potting,) and by this means he will have his plants much larger. But it requires some experience for this very early work to be done well. The principle, however, that I wish to point out is this: that in this country the European system, as to time, must be varied, and the plants must be got to their full size, as to wood and foliage, before the time of spring, when the increase of the sun's power will necessarily force them into immediate bloom without giving time for their bloom-branches and buds to be properly developed before the flowers expand.