We have the same vine growing for three years in open air, on light, sandy soil, at Dover, Del., exposed without protection to severest suns and freezing cold, and not a leaf has ever been injured. We consider it hardy, and not in the least affected by the heat of the sun.

Pruning Evergreens - In setting out small Arbor Vitaes and Hemlocks, say those ten to fifteen inches high, I cut back side branches, and leading shoots, one-third, and this can be done very rapidly, by grasping the entiro top in one hand, then, witht he other shear or cut with one stroke of the pruning knife.

If the plants are smaller, say six to ten inches high, a half dozen or more can be easily taken in hand at one time, and all pruned with one stroke. This cutting back of the tops is very beneficial to young plants from the seed beds, or when gathered from the woods. The roots are always more or less injured, and lessening of the amount of top will often be the means of saving life. In removing larger trees, and of different kinds, such as the spruces and pines, a shortening of the branches will not only assist in saving the life of the plants, but aid in giving them a good, symmetrical form. Evergreens grown in nursery rows are very likely to be distorted in form; the branches on the two sides adjoining the neighboring plants in the row will be much shorter and less in number than on the other two sides; consequently, the shortening of the longer ones gives symmetry and uniformity of appearance.

It is a great mistake to suppose, as many persons do, that evergreens require no pruning. They may not need as much as deciduous trees; still, a little at the time of transplanting, and enough afterwards to keep them in proper shape, is certainly beneficial, if not positively necessary. If trees that have been set in nursery rows or hedges fail to make stocky specimens, the leading shoots should be annually shortened, until the requisite form is secured. - "Ruralist" in Rural New Yorker.