Artichokes, Globe

As soon as these have done their work, have the flower-stems cut down, most of the larger outside leaves removed, and the roots covered with litter, or -something of the kind, as a protection against severe weather.

Asparagus

As soon as the tops decay let them be cut down close to the ground, and the beds cleaned and covered with a three-inch layer of well-rotted dung. It is advisable not to interfere with the alleys, lest by digging or forking, that portion of the roots which extend to them be injured, or perhaps destroyed.

Beans, Broad

Sow, towards the end of the month, a few Mazagans on a sheltered border of deep strong loam that has been well manured, where they are to remain; or on a warm border for transplanting in April.

Beet

These may be taken up, very carefully, as soon as ripe ; the leaves removed to within an inch of the crowns of the roots, and preserved in sand.

Borecole

When you have a vacancy, available plants may be put out from a foot to fifteen inches apart in the row, or if there be room for more than one, the rows should be two feet asunder.

Broccoli

As a check to luxuriant growth, which renders these plants very liable to injury from frost, it is advisable to take them up and lay them in by the heels - that is in a slanting position - close together, covering the roots and stems up to the leaves. The Cape varieties, now heading, also require protection from frost.

Cabbages

The August-sown should be planted out for spring use twice as thickly as they are wanted, that when every other one or two out of every three are drawn for greens during the winter, the others may be left to form cabbages. The weakest may be left in the seed-bed to be pricked out three inches apart for future planting.

Capsicums

Let these have all the ripening influences of the sun by removing such leaves as shade the pods too much, and as soon as there is any sign of frost, gather them, even if still green.

Cardoons

On a dry day the leaves of these should be gathered up in a bunch and slightly tied round with bast, to prevent the earth from entering their hearts; then with the spade break the soil fine, and with it earth them up their full height, to whiten or blanch.

Carrots

These must be taken up without injury, thoroughly dried, and preserved in sand. Any that are broken or cut in the lifting will not do for storing, and should therefore be put on one side for immediate use.

Cauliflowers

Prick out from the seed-bed such plants as are large enough in frames, and under handlights; also pot off a few singly in small pots, and place them where they will have plenty of light and air, as well as protection from rain and frost, until they are planted out in the spring. Such as have been some time in frames, or under hand glasses, must be cleared of dead and dying leaves, and have air and moisture supplied to them, whenever the weather is at all favourable.

Celery

Earth up, to the full extent of their leaves, such plants as are required for immediate use, but let the successional plantation alone as long as possible, so that the foliage may have its freedom to grow larger and stronger. In the event of frost, protect the forward crops with a good covering of long litter.

Chives

These, which require replanting every two or three years, may be taken up now, if not already done, separated, and planted out in any quarter of the garden where the earth is moderately good; it does not require rich soil.

Endive

The last crop of this useful salading plant may be put out on a dry and warm border, with a south aspect, and a limited number in a frame, for protection, as soon as severe weather sets in. Also see to the blanching of a few full-grown plants weekly, or oftener if necessary, by tying up or placing a board or tile upon them.

Garlic

These may be planted out now in drills nine inches apart and six inches deep, on a light and dry soil, not recently manured; but where it is of an opposite character - heavy and wet - the work had better be deferred until February or April.

Herbs

Sow seed of angelica, carraway, and pot marigold, in the open border. Tarragon may be increased by offsets.

Hot-Bed

Whatever time of the year you make a hot-bed, the construction is the same, and the present is as good a season as any. Shake out the warm dung well, and pile it in a square heap, one foot larger all round than the frame which is to stand on it, and three feet six inches high; this should be patted down as you pile it, and be kept flat on the top; then lift on the frame and put on the glass; thrust a stick half-way through it from the outside - you can always try the internal heat by pulling this out and feeling the end. Let out the steam by lifting up the light behind in the middle of the day; when the heat is moderately strong, put three inches of good loam inside the frame all over the dung, and you may sow your seeds of any kind in pots to raise for planting out; cucumbers and melons should be potted off two or three in a forty-eight sized pot as soon as they have two rough leaves; they may then be grown a fortnight or three weeks; but as soon as there are four good rough leaves, pinch off the top, and when they are to be put out into the hot-bed, turn out the ball of earth whole; place it upright in the centre of the light, and heap up dry sifted mould, obtained for the purpose, all round it, rather higher than the surface of the base, so as to form a basin to hold water; this heap you will extend by adding mould all round it, as you see the roots come through the sides of it, until at length you fill the whole of the frame to a level of surface of the old ball, levelling down the portion that at first was higher than the ball and formed a basin.