The brick wall (Fig. 119) as a garden enclosure is not so pleasing from an esthetic point of view as those of other materials. Because of the color it does not make a good background for many of the flowers. If brick is used a dark shade should be selected and laid with a broad mortar joint.
A brick wall should not be less than twelve inches thick and should be laid in cement mortar on a good foundation of stone or concrete extending not less than four inches on each side beyond the face of the finished wall. To economize on a quantity of brick the wall may be paneled and piers placed at intervals of from ten to twelve feet apart, using a nine-inch wall between them.
An effective and practical wall may be constructed by laying the brick lengthwise, four inches thick, with a two-inch opening between the ends. In this construction the piers should be placed eight feet apart.
The coping for a brick wall may be of brick on edge, molded brick, brick laid on an angle of 45 degrees, cement cut stone, or tile. The coping should have a projection of not more than an inch on each side of the wall. A coping set flush is quite agreeable. All brick walls should be clothed with clinging vines trained over the top to break the line and soften the effect.
Fig. 119. - Brick garden wall with an attractive entrance treatment.-See page 140.
Fig. 120. - Detail for the construction of a stucco wall on expanded metal. - See page 143.
The stucco wall may be laid on stone, brick, hollow tile, or expanded metal. The usual method is to construct a rough wall on which is laid the first or scratch coat. When this has very nearly set a second coat of the color and texture desired is applied and finished.
If the rough wall is built of brick it should not be less than nine inches thick, with a firm foundation of eighteen to twenty inches of stone or concrete, extending below the frost line usually from two to three feet.
When building a stucco wall on brick a good effect may be secured by having a brick base and brick coping. The base to consist of a row of brick on end, projecting one quarter inch beyond the finished mortar surface. The coping should be constructed of a row of brick on edge with a very slight projection on each side of the wall.
If hollow tile is used for the rough wall eight-inch tile may be used for walls less than five feet high; for walls above that, twelve inch tiles should be used.
The brick base and coping may be effectively used with the hollow tile. Foundation should be the same as is used for brick.
Rough stone walls for stucco should not be less than sixteen inches thick for walls five feet high or less. For walls above five feet the thickness should be at least eighteen inches. Foundation should be of stone or concrete, twenty to twenty-two inches thick and extending below the frost line.
The most economical stucco wall is that laid on expanded metal (Fig. 120) supported by channel iron set at intervals of one foot, with four channel irons set at intervals of eight feet in the form of a square, six inches apart, as a reinforcement. The cement mortar is worked through the openings in the expanded metal and, after it becomes hardened, the scratch coat is applied to the other side, the mortar clinging to the keys formed by the mortar worked through the openings. The finish coat of the texture and finish desired is then applied.
The posts for such a wall should extend to a depth of two feet and be set in concrete. For the remainder of the wall it is only necessary to have the mortar extend six inches below the grade line.
The coping should be of mortar two and one-half inches thick, beveled on top, with a projection of about one-half inch on each side. All stucco walls should be covered with quick growing vines. Boston Ivy (Ampelopsis Veitchii), Red-berried Euonymus (Euonymus vegetus), and English Ivy (Hedera helix) are suitable.