Bonny Lass, Capper's

This variety won one hundred and sixty - seven prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 21 dwts. 10 grains.

Cheshire Lass

Saunders's. This is one of the earliest varieties, and makes excellent tarts. The fruit is large, oblong, downy, and fine flavoured.

Governess, Bratherton's

One hundred and twenty-four prizes were awarded for this variety in two years; the largest berry weighing 24 dwts.

Lady Delamere, Wylds's

This variety took two hundred and fifty-three prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 6 grains.

Lady of the Manor

This variety won ninety-eight prizes in two seasons, the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 9 grains. It is held in great esteem for its productiveness.


Fruit of medium size, oblong shape; skin thin, transparent; pulp and juice saccharine and delicious.

Nailer, Blomiley's

One hundred and thirty-four prizes were given for this variety in two seasons; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 12 grains.

Queen Caroline

This variety won one hundred and forty-two prizes in two years; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 1 grain. It is a richly flavoured fruit.

Sheba Queen, Crompton's

This is a favourite variety for private gardens; the fruit is early, of medium size; shape oblong; skin rather downy; pulp pungent and rich.

Smiling Girl

This is a smallish early fruit, with thin transparent skin, and of peculiarly rich flavour even when fully ripe.

Wellington's Glory

One hundred and seventy - three prizes were obtained in two seasons for this variety; the largest berry weighing 20 dwts. 4 grains.

White Bear, Moore's- A fine early dessert fruit; of medium size and oblong shape; skin hairy and somewhat bristly; a prolific bearer.

White Eagle

This variety gained four hundred and seventy - six prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 23 dwts. 12 grains.

White Lion, Chelworth's

One hundred and two prizes were given for this variety in two years; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 22 grains. The fruit is late, slightly hairy, and excellent for tarts.

Whitesmith, Woodward's

This is a small early berry, weighing about 14 dwts. The skin is downy, and the fruit is fully equal to any gooseberry of its colour.

The Gooseberry may be propagated by all the modes applicable to trees or shrubs, but that by cuttings is usually adopted for continuing varieties, and that by seed for procuring them. The cuttings should be taken from promising shoots just before the leaves begin to fall in the autumn; the greatest part of the buds should be taken off, leaving only two or three buds on the top. Cut them at such a length as the strength and ripeness of the wood will bear; and plant them in good pulverized soil. On the approach of winter, lay some moss or litter around them; and, by being well cultivated, they will be fit to transplant when they are a year old.

When bushes are procured from the public nurseries, let the general supply be in such kinds as will ripen in succession. They may be planted in the kitchen garden, in single rows, along the side of the walks or paths, or in compartments by themselves, in rows from six to eight feet apart from row to row, and five or six feet apart in the rows; or in small gardens, they may be trained to a single tall stem, and tied to a stake; this, though six or eight feet high, occasions scarcely any shade, and it does not occupy much room, nor exclude air, while, at the same time, the stem becomes closely hung with berries, and makes a pleasant appearance in that state. Persons of taste may train them on arched trellises, and if they are judiciously managed, the ground around them may be more easily cultivated; the fruit may be kept from being splashed with rain, and may be easily gathered when wanted, or preserved by shading with mats, etc. Those who may have a choice of soil and site, should fix on a good, rich, loamy earth, and plant some of the choice kinds in a northern and eastern aspect, near the fence, to come late in succession.

The Gooseberry produces its fruit not only on the shoots of the preceding year, and on shoots two or three years old, but also on spurs or snags arising from the older branches along the sides; but the former afford the largest fruit. The shoots retained for bearers should therefore be left at full length, or nearly so; the first pruning should be done before the buds swell, so as not to endanger their being rubbed off in the operation. Cut out all the superfluous cross shoots, and prune long ramblers and low stragglers to some well placed lateral or eye: retain a sufficiency of the young well situated laterals and terminals to form successional bearers. In cutting out superfluous and decayed wood, be careful to retain a leading shoot at the end of a principal branch. The superfluous young laterals on the good main branches, instead of being taken off clean, may be cut into little stubs of one or two eyes, which will send out fruit buds and spurs.

Some persons not pruning the Gooseberry bush on right principles, cause it to shoot crowdedly full of young wood in summer, the fruit from which is always small, and does not ripen freely with full flavour; on which account it is an important point in pruning, to keep the middle of the head open and clear, and to let the occasional shortening of the shoots be sparing and moderate. Between the bearing branches keep a regulated distance of at least six inches at the extremities, which will render them fertile bearers of good fruit.

The prize cultivators of this fruit in Lancashire are particular in preparing a very rich soil, and they water occasionally with the liquor which drains from dunghills; and there are s<»me who, not content with watering at the root and over the top, place a small saucer of water under each Gooseberry, only six or eight of which are left on a bush; this is technically called suckling. There are others who ring some of the branches; this is done by cutting out small circles of bark round them; and by pinching off a great part of the young wood, the strength is thrown to the fruit.

Unripe Gooseberries may be preserved in bottles against winter: some, after filling the bottles in a dry state, stand them in a slow oven, or in hot water, so as to heat them gradually through without cracking them; they will keep a whole year if closely corked and sealed as soon as cold.

The Gooseberry may be forced in pots or boxes, placed in pits, or in the peach house or vinery. "Hay plants in pots in November, removes to the peach house in January, and has ripe fruit in the end of April, which he sends to table growing on the plants." - Hort. Trails, iv. 416.