Gloxinias From Seed

Like Begonias, these beautiful plants have to form tubers before they can develop, and it is therefore wise to sow a packet of seed early in January. They are among the most beautiful of all small, low-growing plants for greenhouses and conservatories, and when once a stock of tubers has been secured, a succession of bloom can be had by the simple device of starting the tubers in batches.

A Propagator.

Fig. 3. - A Propagator.

a. a. Hot-water pipes.

b. Cocoa-nut fibre for plunging pots containing cuttings (c) in.

This kind of propagator can be used separately with a lighted lamp under it, when the propagator rests on a vessel of water.

Starting Gloxinia Tubers.

Fig. 4. - Starting Gloxinia Tubers.

a. Soil in a box.

b. Tubers partially buried in the soil.

c. A tuber starting to grow.

The Star Cineraria (stellata), a free flowering section.

The Star Cineraria (stellata), a free-flowering section, very brilliant in colour, and useful for winter bloom.

Gloxinias From Tubers

Those who already have tubers, or who prefer to buy them in order to get flowers earlier than it is possible to have them from seed, may start a few now if they want a batch of plants in bloom in spring. But a warm house is necessary, as an un-heated greenhouse might be frosted over at this time of year. The grower ought to have a minimum temperature of 550. Pots from six to seven inches across, top inside measurement, will be suitable. The soil may consist of three parts loam, one part leaf soil, and about a twelfth of coarse sand.

Procuring Potting Soil

I advise all growers of pot plants to lay in a store of suitable soil at the outset of their operations. It is a good plan to buy it in winter, because it can be carted in when the ground is hard with frost. Every trade florist knows what potting loam is, because he uses it himself, and he will generally supply it to customers. An amateur can prepare it himself by buying turves, but he cannot use the latter at once, because the grass is fresh. He must stack the turves in a heap and leave them for several months - preferably a whole year, as then the grass decays thoroughly; moreover, any eelworms and wireworms which may be ensconced in the roots of the grass when it is taken up are starved out. A temporary supply of leaf mould can also be got from the florist, and a future supply prepared at home by getting some leaves in the autumn, treading them into a mass in a spare corner, and leaving them several months to decay. Any local builder will supply coarse, washed sand, but silver sand has generally to be got from the florist.

Star Cinerarias

The amateur who sowed seed in late spring of the previous year will now see them advancing into bloom. One realises how valuable Cinerarias are when one sees a well-grown batch of them flowering in a public garden, such as Kew, on a winter day. Especially does one admire the Star Cineraria, with its graceful habit and abundance of bright flowers. My present hint is concerned with the treatment of developed plants. I will deal with sowing at the proper time. In the first place, it should be remembered that a high, moist temperature is bad. The plants enjoy a cool, rather dry air. Note the buoyant, bracing, spicy atmosphere of the beautiful "flowering house" in Kew Gardens, and you will appreciate my point. A temperature of 400 to 450 is quite warm enough. The plants should only be watered when the soil becomes nearly dry, but it must not be allowed to get, and remain, quite dry. A dose of liquid manure may be given once a week. Florists sell tins of fertiliser, a pinch of which may be sown on the surface and watered in.