Grapes

Grape Vines will be in various stages, according to whether they were started in January, February, or March. Those which are swelling up their crop will not require a great deal of manipulation, as the tying down of the laterals, and the thinning of the berries, will both have been completed. Some stopping may be needed, however. As a rule, the ends of the fruit-bearing shoots ("laterals") are pinched off at the second leaf beyond the bunch of fruit, but it depends upon the amount of room that there is for extension. Overcrowding through the laterals of one Vine running into those of its neighbour must be repressed. When sub-laterals start as a result of the stopping of the fruiting shoots, they should be pinched at the first leaf, unless there is plenty of room for them, in which case they may be allowed to extend a little. The vinery should be closed about 3 P.M. and well syringed. This will provide a moist, warm atmosphere. The ventilators should be opened early in the morning. Later Vines should be tied and stopped, and have the bunches thinned, in accordance with previous directions. Tap the rods or use the camel-hair brush in order to spread the pollen of Grapes which are in bloom. Alnwick Seedling is a shy setter, and the brush may be used on it.

Melons

Early plants will be swelling their fruits. Four are enough for each, and six should never be exceeded. Liquid manure will help the plants. It may be made by soaking sheep droppings or other manure in water, by mixing an ounce of superphosphate in a gallon of water, or by purchasing the advertised proprietary fertilisers. Later plants will be in flower, and the camel-hair brush may be passed across the blossoms about the middle of a sunny day in order to assist fertilisation. Young plants may be top-dressed when the roots show at the top of the mounds.

Peaches will now have set their fruit and stoned. While the fruit is stoning swelling ceases temporarily. Overcropping should be guarded against. Not more than two fruits should be allowed on each shoot, one only being permitted if the trees are weak. Young shoots are now growing. Only enough should be kept to provide sufficient fruiting wood for the following year; and any shoots which it is plain would cause overcrowding if allowed to develop should be removed.

Strawberries

Plants which were forced earlier in the year may now have been cleared of fruit, and may be turned out of their pots and planted in the garden, where they will yield runners for propagation, and even a little fruit late in the season. Hoe between young plants in outdoor beds, and cut off runners as fast as they form. This will encourage growth, and the plants will quickly become strong.

Spraying Outdoor Fruit Trees For Caterpillars And Grubs

The earlier kinds of outdoor fruit, such as Cherries, Plums, and Pears, may now be in bloom; and the Apples will soon follow them. The bursting of the fruit buds adds great charm to the garden, for fruit blossom is very beautiful. But it may be accompanied by the appearance of caterpillars, such as those of the Winter, Lackey, and Small Ermine moths, which feed on the blossoms and leaves, and in some cases ruin the crop. The Codlin grub has also to be taken into account. This pest eats its way into the fruit directly it has formed, and causes it to fall before it is half grown. Perhaps the best remedy for all these pests is Swift's arsenate paste, mixed in water at the rate of half an ounce per gallon, and sprayed on in a very fine state a few days after the blossom has fallen. In the case of grass orchards the animals should be removed for about three weeks.