Gathering And Storing Fruit

In view of the probability of sharp frost coming soon, it is desirable to gather any outdoor fruit that is still on the trees. Mid-season and late Apples like Blenheim, Lane's Prince Albert, Bramley's Seedling, Newton Wonder, Cox's Orange Pippin, Wellington, Sturmer, and Rosemary Russet (to name a few of both culinary and dessert varieties) are particularly valuable, and should be gathered and stored carefully. A cool, clean, sweet-smelling store is a great advantage, as it insures the fruit being quite free from mustiness. It is for this reason that large growers erect a special building, with double walls and thatched roof, for storing fruit. They keep it on plain open stages, using no straw or hay. Small growers cannot do this, of course, as the quantity of fruit which they grow does not justify the expense. The best of the fruit may be stored in large clean earthenware jars after it has stood a few days to "sweat," and the jars may be sealed up and put away in a cool place. Large bulks may also be stored in barrels, which can be closed and covered with straw; but great care must be taken to avoid putting any unsound fruits in, or others will become contaminated, and rot. Late Pears, such as Glou Morceau, Josephine de Malines, Easter Beurre, Olivier de Serres, and Winter Nelis must be gathered also, although they are still quite hard. Some pressure may be required to remove them, but it need not be applied so roughly as to injure the spurs. They may be laid on a clean shelf in a sweet, well-ventilated place. The cooler it is, provided that it is frost-proof, the better, as then the fruit will ripen by degrees, and a suitable succession can be maintained. This desideratum can be expedited by selecting a few of the most forward fruits from time to time, and putting them in a warm house.

Grapes

Where Grapes are still hanging on the Vines, it will be well to look over the bunches in order to make sure that there are no decaying berries; if there are, they should be removed at once, or they will contaminate others. The Grapes keep best in a dry atmosphere, and it will be impossible to maintain this now and onwards without warming the hot-water pipes, as the external air is naturally moist. It is not desirable to keep the ventilators closed, except in muggy weather. If there has been any trouble from "shanking" - that is, shrivelling of the footstalks of the berries - and it is certain that overcropping and underfeeding are not the cause, the soil may be removed from the border where the foliage has fallen or is mature, and any deep-striking roots cut through. The upper part of the roots should be raised into the surface soil, and fresh loam put round them.

Pot Fruit Trees

The present is a good time to repot all kinds of fruit trees that are grown in large pots. What is termed "orchard-house culture" - that is, growing trees in pots and standing them in a large, cool, airy house, when the buds begin to expand - is well worth the attention of those who can afford to practise it. The house is not wanted for the trees the whole of the year - only for a few weeks, as a matter of fact. At other periods, Tomatoes, Chrysanthemums, and other important crops can be grown in it. The system is somewhat more expensive than growing fruit in the open air, as, in addition to the house, a part of the cost of which would have to be charged to the fruit, large pots have to be provided. Ten- and twelve-inch are suitable. Trees could be bought now, and the pots plunged in ashes in a sheltered place for the winter, or in spring. In repotting existing trees, the lower part of the ball of soil and roots, the sides, and the top can all be reduced to the extent of a couple of inches without fear of injury, even if some roots are destroyed in the process. The pots should be cleaned, re-drained, and fresh loamy soil packed well in round the old ball. The trees will be all right in the open during the winter, but if they comprise some Peaches and Nectarines, these should have the most shelter, as they are more likely to be injured by hard frost than Apples, Pears, Cherries, and Plums.

Strawberry Beds

Beds of Strawberries would last in bearing much longer than they do, if they were gone over regularly at this time of year, all weeds and runners removed, the soil loosened, and a coat of manure laid between the rows.

Fig. 87. - Repotting Fruit Trees.

a. Space left for future top-dressing b. Good drainage.

c. New compost.