3.  Plants may also be plunged in a boiling solution of 1 part of salicylic acid and 600 of alcohol, and then dried in bibulous paper. But this should be done very rapidly, violet flowers especially being decolorized by more than an instantaneous immersion.

4.  Red flowers which have changed to a purplish tint in drying may have their color restored by laying them on a piece of moistened paper

PRESERVING FLOWERS with dilute nitric acid (one part to ten or twelve parts of water), and then submitting them to moderate pressure for a few seconds ; but the solution must not touch the green leaves, as they are decolorized by it. 5. With sulfur (Quin). — Procure a chest about three or four feet square with a small opening in the under part of one side, to be closed by a bar, through which the basin containing brimstone must be put into the chest ; this opening must be covered inside with perforated tin, in order to prevent those flowers which hang immediately over the basin from being spoiled. Paper the inside to render it airtight. When the chest is ready for use, nail small laths on two opposite sides of the interior, at a distance of about six inches apart, and on these lay thin round sticks upon which to arrange the flowers ; these should not be close together, or the vapor will not circulate freely through the vacant spaces around the flowers. When the chest is sufficiently full of flowers, close it carefully, place a damp cloth on the sides of the lid, and some heavy stones upon the top of it ; then take small pieces of brimstone, put them in a small, flat basin, kindle, and put through the opening in the bottom of the chest and shut the bar. Leave the chest undisturbed for twenty-four hours, after which time it must be opened, and if the flowers be sufficiently smoked, they will appear white, if not, they must be smoked again. When sufficiently smoked, take the flowers out carefully and hang them up in a dry, airy place in the shade, and in a few days or even hours they will recover their natural color, except being only a shade paler.

To give them a very bright and shining color, plunge them into a mixture of ten parts of cold water and one of good nitric acid ; drain off the liquid, and hang them up again the same as before. The best flowers for this process are asters, roses, fuchsias (single ones), spireas (red-flowered kinds, such as Japonica, Douglasi, etc.), ranunculus, delphiniums, cytisus, etc. The roses should be quite open, but not too fully blown.

6. In sand (Quin). — Dry the plants in clean silver sand, free from organic matter (made so by repeated washing, until the sand ceases to discolor the water). Heat the sand rather hot, and mix with it by constant stirring a small piece of wax candle, which prevents the sand from adhering to the flowers. Have a box not higher than three inches, but as broad as possible ; this box should have instead of a bottom a narrow-meshed iron-wire net at a distance of three-fourths inch from where the bottom should be. Place the box on a board and fill with sand till the net is just covered with a thin layer of sand ; upon this layer of sand, place a layer of flowers, on that a layer of sand, then flowers, and so on ; the layers of sand should vary in thickness according to the kind of flowers, from one-eighth to one-fourth inch.

When the box contains about three layers of flowers, it must be removed to a very sunny dry place, the best being close under the glass in an empty greenhouse, exposed to the full influence of the sun. After a week, if the weather is sunny and dry, the flowers will be perfectly dried ; then the box is lifted a little, the sand falls gently through the iron net, and the flowers remain in their position over the net without any disturbance whatever.

They should then be taken out carefully and kept in a dry and, if possible, dark place, where no sun can reach them, and afterwards they will keep very well for many years.