Care should be taken that the flowers are cut in dry weather, and that while lying in the sand no part of a flower shall touch another part, as this always spoils the color and causes decay. Sand should be filled in between all the parts of the flower ; therefore it is necessary to insert the double flowers in an erect position, in order to fill the sand between the petals, while most of the single flowers must be put in with the stalks upwards.

Printing Plants. — 1. First, lightly oil one side of paper, then fold in four, so that the oil may filter through the pores, and the plant may not come into direct contact with the liquid. The plant is placed between the leaves of the second folding, and in this position pressed (through other paper) all over with the hand, so as to make a small quantity of oil to adhere to its surface. Then it is taken out and placed between two sheets of white paper for two impressions, and the plant is pressed as before. Sprinkle over the invisible image remaining on the paper a quantity of black lead or charcoal, and distribute it in all directions ; the image then appears in all its parts. With an assortment of colors the natural colors of plants may be reproduced. To obtain fixity, rosin is previously added to the black lead in equal parts. Expose to heat sufficient to melt the rosin.

2. The best paper to use is ordinary wove paper, without watermarks ; if it can be afforded, use thin drawing-paper. First select the leaves, then carefully press and dry them. If they be placed in a plant press, care must be taken not to put too great pressure on the specimens at first, or they will be spoiled for printing. An old book is the best for drying the samples to be used. Secure printers' or proof ink, and a small leather dabber ; work a bit of ink about the size of a pea on a small piece of slate or glass, with the dabber, until it is perfectly smooth. A drop or two of linseed oil will assist the operation. Then give the leaf a thin coating, being careful to spread it equally ; now lay the leaf ink downwards on a sheet of paper and place it between the leaves of an old book, which must then be subjected to a moderate pressure in a copying-press, or passed between the rollers of a wringing-machine. Impressions can be taken with greater rapidity by laying the book on the floor and standing upon it for a few seconds. Soft book-paper is the best. Previous to using it, place a few sheets between damp blotting-paper, which causes it to take the ink still more readily. At first you will find that you lay on too much ink. If the impression is too black, use the leaf again. If the midrib of the leaf is too thick, it must be shaved down with a sharp knife.

3. Leaf-prints (Engle). — 1. A small ink-roller, such as printers use for inking type. 2. A quantity of printers' green ink. 3. A pane of stout window-glass (the larger the better) fastened securely to an evenly planed board twice the size of the glass. A "small quantity of the ink is put on the glass and spread with a knife, after which it is distributed evenly by going over in all directions with the ink-roller. When this has been carefully done, the leaf to be copied is laid on a piece of waste paper and inked by applying the roller once or twice with moderate pressure. This leaves a film of ink on the veins and network of the leaf, and by placing it on a piece of blank paper and applying considerable pressure for a few moments the work is done, and when the leaf is lifted from the paper, the impress remains with all its delicate tracery, faithful in color and outline to the original.

To make the ink of proper consistency, add several drops of balsam copaiba to a salt-spoonful of ink. If the leaf sticks, the ink is too thick.

Skeletonizing Plants. — 1. By maceration. Place the leaves in water, and allow them to remain in the same water for from three to four months, until the soft matter decays, and the stem may be taken in the hand and the refuse shaken away. There remains behind a network or skeleton of the original object, which can be bleached with a little lime. Leaves and pods may both be treated satisfactorily in this manner. The pod of the " Jimson weed " or Datura Stramonium is a favorite for this purpose.

2. By chemicals. — Chloride of lime, 1/4 pound ; washing soda, 1/2 pound. Put the soda into l1/2 pints boiling water (rain-water is best) and let it thoroughly dissolve. Put the chloride of lime in a large pitcher, and add same quantity of cold water. Stir well and cover closely to prevent the escape of the chlorine. When the soda-water is cool, pour it on the chloride of lime, stir well together and cover tightly, leaving it for an hour or more. Then pour off very gently the clear liquid, which must be bottled tightly.

This solution will remove fruit-stains from white goods, and will bleach any vegetable substances. When used for cotton or linen, it must be considerably diluted, and the goods well rinsed afterwards.

Waterproof Paper for Artificial Flowers. — Waterproof paper, transparent and impervious to grease, is obtained by soaking good paper in an aqueous solution of shellac and borax. It resembles parchment paper in some respects. If the aqueous solution be colored with aniline colors, very handsome paper, of use for artificial flowers, is prepared. Prepared paraffin paper is now much used.

To keep Flowers Fresh. — If cut flowers are not needed immediately, wet them and then wrap them in paper and place in a tight box in a cool place. Keep as cool as possible without freezing.

The disagreeable odor which comes from flowers in vases is due to the decay of the leaves and stems in the water. Therefore remove all the lower leaves before putting flowers in vases.

Flowers that have stood in a vase for a day or so can be greatly refreshed if taken from the vase at night, thoroughly sprinkled and wrapped, stems, blossoms, and all, as closely as possible in a soaked cloth and laid aside until the morning. They will be much fresher than if they had been left in their vases, yet will not have bloomed out so much. Before thus laying them aside, and again in the morning, a bit of each stem should be cut off, as the end soon hardens. This ought also to be done once or twice a day, even if the flowers are kept constantly in their vases. Roses that have drooped before their time — as, for example, when worn on the dress — may be revived if the stems, after being thus cut, are placed for ten minutes in almost boiling water and then removed to cold water.