This section is from the "The Construction Of The Modern Locomotive" book, by George Hughes. Also see Amazon: The Construction Of The Modern Locomotive.
During the trial, observations should be made relative to the clearance spaces in and about the motion and elsewhere, also that all pins, journals and bearings remain cool. The injectors should be perfectly free and easy to work. The regulator, reversing, sand, cylinder cock gear and water pickup should work freely, but without any undue slackness, this also being applicable to all other details. The vacuum brake must receive special attention, it being thoroughly tested as to leakage, amount of vacuum and power. The latter is generally tried by putting the brake full on and opening the regulator full. All the joints on the foot plate for boiler mountings, the dome and safety valve covers, also the cylinder and steam chest covers, should be perfectly tight. Finally, each wheel should be run over a ¬ or ⅜ - inch washer, and the effect upon the springs noted, which should give accordingly. The engine is then handed over to the paint shop.
Here it first receives a thorough scouring all over with sandstone, and is afterwards washed down with turpentine, to thoroughly cleanse it from all rust and dirt. It is then given one coat of oil lead colour, which consists of white lead and common black, mixed with boiled linseed oil, turpentine and terebene drier. This coat gives adherence to the stopping and filling, which consists of white lead, Indian copal varnish and gold size. The whole surface of the engine is gone over first, and the worst parts filled up with a thick stopping, using putty knives, and then followed with a thinner stopping worked on with trowels. The rivets are then brushed round with a thinner filling, which softens that put on with trowels, and makes the whole a smooth surface. A cheaper material is mixed with the white lead and used after the first coat of lead colour, when the surfaces are worse than usual and a great quantity of material is required. It is then stained with one coat of vegetable black, mixed with gold size and turpentine, which acts as a guide for the rubbers-down. A smooth surface is then got up by wet rubbing with Schumachersche's Fabrick. Afterwards it receives the first coat of paint, which is a dark lead, mixed in a similar manner to the light lead colour used before filling up. This is followed by a coat of the best drop ivory black, which is mixed with gold size and turpentine, bound with varnish. The third coat consists of the best drop ivory black mixed with varnish, upon which the lining out is done. It is then ready for the varnish, the first two coats being flattened down with pumice powder, horse hair and water, followed by a third coat; best engine copal varnish being used in all cases. The cab is filled up inside in a similar manner to the rest of the engine, and painted with three coats of buff or stone colour, which consists of white lead, Turkey burnt umber, orange chrome, mixed with boiled oil, turpentine and terebene driers. It is then stencilled, lined out, and given two coats of clear varnish. All the motion work, where not bright, and the buffer beam, receives three coats of vermilion and varnished. Wheels, framing, smoke-box and brake gear receive one coat of drop ivory black and two coats of the best Japan black. The whole operation occupies about three weeks, including one week for the varnish to set, and is such that it will not be required to be repeated for five years.
 
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