The construction details of the garden or club house shown on page 65 are such that the successful fence and dock builder will have little trouble in carrying them out. The foundation of the house may be levelled off dirt, in which case creosoted wood posts sunk into the ground at the corners of the house would be sufficient. The corners of the bottom of the house frame are firmly nailed to these posts. On the other hand, you might lay a brick or concrete terrace to serve as a floor. In either case, lay the floor within a 2 x 4 frame that conforms to the length and width of the house. The frame is securely anchored to the creosoted posts, the house frame to the floor frame.
Shop around at various lumber and saw mills. Your first choice for outside finish may be clapboards or shakes (shingles). The cost of them may be so discouraging that the whole project seems hopeless. It needn't be. Check on what is available in the way of unseasoned lumber. It is less expensive and you really can curb your impatience for a few months while the lumber is drying in the garage or barn.
Get eight logs or old telephone poles. Cut to 9' lengths. Hold together by 2x4's os shown. Make ladder of 2x4's, I5"wide, 36" long. Flooring.1"x6" boards, 1"a-part,nailed to the 2x4 frame.
2 x 4's are driven in for supports. Keep fops level. Frame with 2x4's as shown
Flooring. 1"x 4" boards laid 1" apart.
EASY-TO- MAKE PILE DRIVER
For driving in posts for a dock or other foundations: lash the tops of three 2x4's or strong poles together to make a tripod. Driving weight is supplied through cement-filled nail keg which is hauled up by means of a rope run through a block. A 1-2-3 concrete mix is poured into keg, level with top. When partially set, insert a heavy wire loop or 2"eye. End of rope is tied or hooked to this loop, weight is pulled up then let go!
Look for slabs at the saw mill. They are outside pieces of the tree left after the lumber is squared and cut. They are very cheap and, having the tree bark still on them, can be used on the outside of the house. The result looks like a log cabin and, if applied carefully, is weather-tight and durable. You can even use them for the roof laid over tar or roofing paper.
Poultry sash and a homemade door (see sketch on page 65) can be substituted for stock windows and door. The poultry or barn sash is very easily installed. Hinge them at the top or put them in sideways, thereby getting very acceptable casement type windows.
Old lumber in widths of 8", 10" or 12" may be used for a board and batten finished siding. These are laid vertically (up and down) with the outside seams covered with 2" wide strips of wood nailed over them. While it is good practice to use tongue and groove siding for this purpose (see page 59), it is not really necessary since the battens will keep out rain and wind. When using t & g siding, be sure that each piece fits its neighbor tightly. Lay the board in position and then lightly tap along its opposite side to fit the tongue into the groove.
Check the ads in small town newspapers. You may be able to pick up lots of usable lumber at very little cost. It is not unusual to find ads offering to give away the lumber in an old poultry house or carriage shed or corn crib. That means that you will have to tear it down before taking it away and how your friends will love to help you on that project! Before committing yourself on the demolishing, look the building over carefully to see just how much usable lumber you'll get out of it. It may not be worth the time and trouble involved. Then again, it may be well worth the work.
No matter what kind of outside finish is put on the house, the corners require a weather-tight finish. This is done by nailing a 1" x 3" board vertically along the outer edge of the building from foundation up to roof line. It should extend one inch beyond the edge of the house. A second board is nailed to the side (at right angles to the first) with its end fitted tightly against the extension of the first board. This boxes in the corners.
If shingles are put on the roof (they are started at the bottom and worked up towards the ridgepole), 4" boards should be nailed across the rafters on the outside before the shingling is begun. The thin end of the shingle is the top and is nailed to the horizontal boards (called roofers) with shingle nails. These are short nails having a very wide flat head. Do not try to put shingles on with any other kind of nail.
As a matter of fact it is a very good idea to become familiar with different types of nails and always to use the right nail for the job in hand. Any old nail really won't do. A nail should be just long enough to go entirely through one piece of wood and half way through the board that is being attached to it. There are three kinds of nails: shingle nails described above, brads, which have a small and inconspicuous head, and nails which have a small flat head. The two latter types come in specific sizes designated as "penny". For instance, the 8 penny nail is about 2'/2" long, the 12 penny about 3 1/4;" long. They also come in various thicknesses. Lightweight lumber requires thin nails. Heavy lumber calls for thick ones. Learn your nails by asking the millman to show you all the various sizes.
But to complete the finishing of the clubhouse: add a couple of bunks or a double-decker, put in a chuck or pot stove, and the house may be used all year and be most comfortable. If it is built near a lake, the next project that beckons will be a raft or float. Seasoned builder that you are at this moment, you can put together a float in a couple of afternoons. The basic plan is shown on page 61. While it is open to change or redesigning, it must be soundly constructed to be satisfactory.
Size: 9'x12' and 7'high. Poultry sash windows. Use 2x4's for frame and studs. Space as shown below. No windows in back,left side.
Salvage lumber or slabs may be used for outside and roof. Make a batten door : five 6"boards nailed to crosspieces,as shown at right.
Use thin wood, " thick and 2" wide. Uprights are never more than is" apart. Thin galvanized nails do not split wood or cause rust stains.
LATH HOUSE: a summer protection for tender plants,seedlings and cuttings. To make; lower legs are 2x4's each 32"long. Main, or lower frame is of 1x 3" boards. Upper frame, of 2x2s, supports laths. The laths are spaced 2" apart. Brace corners.
Finished lath house
Another carpentry field that offers the young craftsman opportunities to make money is that of garden accessories. Lattices, arbors, pergolas, etc., have great appeal in suburban communities. Commercially made ones seldom fill the requirements of the discerning gardener. He wants custom-made ones to fit individual specifications. You can fill those specifications for him.
Thin, narrow strips of wood are used for most garden accessories. They should be hard, smooth and fairly pliable. The completed piece should always be painted before delivery to the customer unless he specifies to the contrary.
Before planning a piece of garden lattice, check with your lumber mill or millwork concern to see what wood they have available. It is a type of wood that is sometimes difficult to obtain, so be sure that you can get a supply before working out plans. The sketches on page 66 suggest several designs and their specifications.
There are two ways to paint lattices, etc. The brush and paint can method is slow but sure. The spray method, fast in operation, usually calls for at least two coats. Spraying may be done with the floor-wax-spray attachment of the tank type vacuum cleaner. The paint must be thinned considerably with turpentine until it is no thicker than the liquid floor wax the attachment was designed for. Do all spraying outdoors.
Lath houses, a form of garden protection that is becoming more and more popular, are easily constructed. These houses are used to protect seedlings and potted plants from the full sun. Any gardener interested in raising his own stock from seeds or cuttings is a likely customer for a lath house.
Specifications for the lath house and its frame are found on page 66. The frame is made of 2 x 4's with planks of various widths used for the benches. Regular laths, those narrow strips of rough wood used in walls to hold plaster, make the sides and roof of the house. The lath house is never painted because it weathers pleasantly and soon becomes inconspicuous.
Lath Shades for Cold Frames: make a frame of 2 x 2's sized to fit the top edges of a cold frame or hot bed. Nail laths across the frame, leaving 2" spaces between each. Shade is used to protect cuttings, seedling evergreens from the hot summer sun.
Poultry House or Goat Shed: an efficient small stock shed which will house twenty-five chickens or three goats or sheep may be made by changing the clubhouse specifications slightly. Eliminate the peaked roof and use a shed-type instead. This is flat, higher in the front than the back. Front wall of house should be T high, back wall 5 1/2' high. Roof is made of t & g boards, nailed flat, and having a 12" overhang in front, a 4" overhang in back. House, especially for poultry, should face south and be quite draft-proof. For sanitary and disease-resistant purposes, build house over a four-inch concrete floor.