This section is from the book "Hints And Practical Information For Cabinet-Makers, Upholsterers, And Furniture Men Generally", by John Phin. Also available from Amazon: Hints And Practical Information For Cabinet-Makers, Upholsterers, And Furniture Men.
Sulphuric acid, more or less diluted, according to the intensity of the color to be produced, is applied with a brush to the wood, previously cleaned and dried. A lighter or darker brown stain is obtained, according to the strength of the acid. When the acid has acted sufficiently its further action is arrested by the application of ammonia. Tincture of iodine yields a fine brown coloration, which, however, is not permanent unless the air is excluded by a thick coating of polish. Nitric acid gives a fine permanent yellow, which is converted into a dark brown by the subsequent application of tincture of iodine.
To French-polish a black sideboard it is not absolutely necessary to use black polish, but it is usual to do so, as it produces a finer black. The sideboard, or any kind of furniture, is polished in the usual manner, by using black polish, and filling up the grain with black; the simplest kind is weak glue and lamp-black. When dry, paper down and polish as usual. The rubber of the polisher should be dipped in ivory-black, or gas-black, moistened with black polish, covered.with linen rag, a touch of linseed oil, and used as usual. Black polish is made thus:-One gill dark French polish poured into a clean bottle, then add 1/2 oz. best ivory-black, or gas-black is best; in fine powder well, shake until mixed, and used as before described. Gas-black is made by impinging a broad gas burner on the bottom of a glue-pot or sheet of metal, and gathering the black as made.
A simple plan for holding frames in position till dry is to tack lengths of wood on a board, and after laying the frame between them, gently press wedges till the joints are home. It is such a common complaint of the nonconformity between the first and last mitre, that gilt corners are made ready, like chanty, to cover a multitude of sins. These, if laid on a damp cloth, soon become sufficiently pliable to take the bend of the moulding, and, besides being very cheap, are a great improvement and a blessing to many besides amateurs.
For tool handles there is nothing better than shellac varnish. It should be put on before the handle is removed from the lathe. Use it the same as French polish, and in small quantities.
According to the Painter's Magazine, painting on zinc is made easier by employing a mordant composed of one quart of chloride of copper, one of nitrate of copper, and one of sal ammonia, dissolved in 64 parts of water, and to this mixture is added one part of commercial hydrochloric acid. This is brushed over the plate of zinc, and after 12 or 24 hours it drys a dullish gray color. Painting upon this surface the colors will adhere in a perfect manner. Another method, according to the same authority, is as follows: Procure some muriatic acid of full strength, and drop into it some pieces of zinc until effervescence ceases. Add an equal quantity of water, and with a sponge tied to a stick wash over every part of the surface to be painted. This roughens the surface and takes off that sort of greasiness which prevents paint from adhering. After the acid has remained a short time wash it over with water or diluted vinegar, dry off and paint.
 
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