This section is from the book "Hints And Practical Information For Cabinet-Makers, Upholsterers, And Furniture Men Generally", by John Phin. Also available from Amazon: Hints And Practical Information For Cabinet-Makers, Upholsterers, And Furniture Men.
First, wash the surface with boiling water, and, with a coarse cloth, remove dirt or grease; then place it before the fire, or heat it with a caul; oil its surface with common linseed-oil, place it again to the tire, and the heat will make the oil penetrate quite through the veneer, and soften the glue underneath; then, while hot, raise the edge gently with a chisel, and it will separate completely from the ground; be careful not to use too great force, or the work will be spoiled. Again, if it should get cold during the operation, apply more oil, and heat it again. Repeat this process till the veneer is entirely separated, then wash off the old glue and proceed to lay it again as a new veneer.
Wet the part with warm water; double a piece of brown paper five or six times, soak it, and lay it on the place; apply on that a hot flat-iron till the moisture is evaporated. If the bruise be not gone, repeat the process. After two or three applications, the dent or bruise will be raised level with the surface. If the bruise be small, merely soak it with warm water, and apply a red-hot poker very near the surface; keep it continually wet, and in a few minutes the bruise will disappear.
A good firm tissue paper washed with a mixture of six parts spirits of wine, one of resin, one of nut oil. Apply with a sponge.
Canada balsam and turpentine, equal parts, will make a varnish which, if applied to one side of a good thin paper, will answer well. If it is meant to take watercolor, a coat of ox gall must be laid on.
Dissolve a piece of white beeswax, about the size of a walnut, in half a pint of spirits of turpentine; then, having procured some very fine white, woven tissue-paper, lay it on a clean board, and, with a soft brush dipped in this liquid, go over one side, and then turn it over, and apply it to the other; hang it up in a place free from dust, to dry. It will be ready for use in a few days. Some add a small quantity of resin, or use resin instead of wax.
Tightly strain across an old drawing-board, by means of tacks slightly driven, a piece of cotton of tolerably good quality, but do not damp it, except with paste, as hereafter mentioned. Work the last in well with a painter's brush that has not been used for any other purpose. It is advisable to soak the brush, before using, for a few hours in cold water, so as, by expansion of the handle and constriction of the cordage, to tighten the hairs, and prevent them coming out with the paste. Paste also the back of the tracing, and, obtaining the assistance of another person, hold it by the corners over the strained fabric, allowing it to sag well, and lower it gently until the middle of the tracing first come into contact with the calico, after which gently and simultaneously lay down each corner. The tracing may now be gently dabbed with a clean cloth, commencing at the middle, and working out the blisters to the edge. A needle may sometimes be used with advantage to puncture small holes and set free the air in some of the obstinate blisters; but do not trouble to remove them all, as the smaller ones will quite disappear in drying. Do not rub the tracing whilst wet without the intervention of a sheet of large thin lining paper, such as is used for lining walls.
Allow the tracing to dry gradually on the board without fire heat, and do not remove it until thoroughly dry. Draw on the scale before mounting, so that it may, by contracting and expanding with the drawing, be always true. The tracing, when mounted, presents a better surface for coloring than before. The board should be cleaned before using.
 
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