In this list we should omit such as bronze green, and, in fact, all composite greens, as well as the ordinary chrome green. When these are called for specially, the color grinder will have no trouble in furnishing them but to keep them in stock is wasteful and unwise. Only very moderate sized stocks should be kept of such distemper colors as are apt to settle or dry up rapidly or that are rather expensive. In the quick settling line are emerald or Paris green and ultramarine green and in the high priced we have verte emeraude. The list is sufficiently large with cobalt green, emerald green, terre verte, ultramarine green, verte emeraude (or Guignet's green). If cobalt or zinc green cannot be had in pulp form, seventy-five parts of the dry powder should be mixed with thirty-five parts water, given several runs through a stone mill provided with a casing to keep from splashing and when color is smooth and fine, the yield should be 100 parts by weight of finished pulp.
Emerald green in water. Mix any good, bright Paris green, say eighty-four parts dry with twenty-six parts of water, run through mill until fine. Yield 100 parts by weight.
Terre verte or green earth in water. Mix a good grade of green earth in dry powder, say sixty-five parts in forty-five parts water, grind until fine and the yield should be 100 parts by weight.
Ultramarine green in water. Mix sixty-five parts dry pigment with forty-five parts water, grind fine on stone mill and yield should be 100 parts by weight.
Verte emeraude in water. Mix sixty parts dry pigment with fifty parts water, grind carefully without overheating until fine and the yield should be 100 parts. (The pigment in this case is the hydrated oxide of chomium, known as Guignet's green). When an olive green oxide is desired of good body ground in water that will resist alkalies to a great extent, then mix say seventy-four parts oxide of chromium green (ordinary) in thirty-six parts water and grind to a fine pulp. Yield 100 parts by weight.