Locate, stake and establish the grade. Then level, line and square as described in the fore part of the book. (See index for same.) Set the forms for the concrete wall, setting bolts in the concrete and let extend 2 1/2" above the wall to bolt sills in place.

The wall should be 2" or more above the finished floor. Leave an opening in the cement floor 2'x5', directly under the engine and transmission, fill the pit with sand to absorb all grease that may drop. When it becomes too oily shovel out and replace with clean sand, and there will be no pans and oily floors to clean.

Lay the sills and space them for the studding. Cut plates the dimension of the building over the sills and space the same as sills. Lay out the door and window openings. Cut the studs 8', less the thickness of the sill and the plate. Nail the studs on the plate, raise and nail to the sill.

Brace and plumb the corners, double the plates, and tie the building the way the rafters span. Put braces above on the plate diagonally near the corners, to keep the front end plumb. Double 2x6 and set edgewise across the front for ties and headers over the doors. Notch out to lower the top even with plate. Cut the rafters for the desired pitch. (See rules on rafters.) Board the sides and leave openings for door and windows. Sheath and shingle as described. (See rule for shingling.) Put on outside finish.

Place the door cleats across the opening for front doors. Notch the side to set the cleat back the thickness of door boards, so the doors will set flush with the casing. The casing to be set back on the siding 1/2" for stop. Cut the boards the proper length and build the doors in place. Brace and hinge before opening them.

The dotted lines (fig. 53) represents ties and braces on the top plate.

Garage 56

Fig. 53