Funnels C, conning-tower E, fighting-tops K, turret bases M, and turrets N (Fig. 255) are most easily prepared as shown in Figs. 256 and 257. If you can get round sticks of this diameter - rug-poles or portiere poles, - use them; otherwise, plane up two blocks, one 1 1/2 inches square, the other 1 3/4 inches square, describe a circle with the given radii upon the ends of the blocks, and whittle or plane the edges until the blocks are round. Finish up the surfaces with sandpaper. With the blocks prepared, it is an easy matter to saw them up to the lengths required.

The tops of The Funnels will look better if bored out for a depth of 1/2 inch or so (Fig. 255). Bore the holes before rounding the block the funnels are to be cut out of, to prevent splitting. The funnels are fastened to the deck with dowel-pins D (Fig. 255). Bore the pin holes in the deck where located in Fig. 254, and in the center of the funnel ends. Coat

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Fig. 256. - Detail of Funnels

Fig. 257. - Detail of Conning-Tower, Fighting-Tops, Turret Bases and Turret the dowel-pins and funnel ends with glue, before driving the dowel-pins into the holes.

Flatten two opposite sides of block E (Fig. 257) for

The Conning-Tower, by cutting away a section of each side, as shown in Fig. 255. Peg this block to the deck with a dowel-pin driven into a hole bored at the point located in Fig. 254.

The Masts are built up of strips of wire cloth (G and H, (Fig. 258) rolled into cylinders with a spool inserted in each end (7 and J, Fig. 255). The strips of wire cloth can be rolled around the spools. Turn in the raw side edges of the wire strips so the wire cylinders will hold their shape. The sticks running through spools J (Fig. 255) are crosstrees from which the wireless-telegraph aerial ( U) is suspended. Peg spool I of the foremast to block E with dowel-pin F, and peg spool I of the aftermost mast to the deck where the dowel-pin hole is located in Figs. 254 and 255 with another dowel-pin (F). Make the spreaders of

The Wireless Aerial (Fig. 255) out of slender sticks, and use black thread for the wire strands (U).

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FlG. 258. - Pattern for Cutting Wire Cloth for Masts

Fighting-Tops K are fastened to mast spools J by means of dowel-pins L, which are driven into the spool holes.

The Turret Bases and Turrets. Holes must be bored through the center of turret blocks TV, turret base blocks

M, and into the decks (Figs. 251, 253 and 255), for dowel-pin pivots P to run through. These holes are located in Figs. 252 and 254. Make the pivots out of 1/4-inch dowel-sticks, or whittle sticks to this diameter. Glue the lower ends of the pivots in the holes bored in the decks, whittle the upper ends to fit the holes in button-moulds measuring 1 1/4 inches in diameter (Q, Fig. 255), and glue the button-moulds to the pivot ends after the turret base blocks and turret blocks have been slipped over the pivots. Holes must be bored in the side of the turret blocks for the guns to run into. To lessen the danger of splitting the blocks while boring, it is best to bore the holes before sawing the blocks from the stick from which they are cut. Figure 257 shows the location of the holes.

The Main Battery Guns (0, Fig. 255), mounted in the turrets, are shown in detail in Fig. 259. Take a 1/4-inch dowel-stick, or a stick whittled to this diameter, and cut from it eight pieces of the length shown (Fig. 261), then with a small wood-bit or drill, start a hole for the bore in the muzzle end of the guns, and with a jack-knife carefully

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Fig. 259

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Fig. 260

Fig. 259. - Main-Battery Guns Fig. 260. - Secondary-Battery Guns

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Fig. 261

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Fig. 263

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Fig. 262

Fig. 261 - Detail Showing How to Cut the Main-Battery Guns from a 1/4-inch Dowel-Stick

Fig. 262. - Detail Showing How to Cut Secondary - Battery Gun Mounts from a 3/4-inch Dowel-Stick

Fig. 263. - Detail Showing How to Cut Secondary-Battery Guns from a 1/8-inch Dowel-stick taper the guns from end to end, as shown in Fig. 259. Smooth up the guns with sandpaper. Glue them in the holes in the turret blocks.

The Secondary-Battery Guns are mounted in the round blocks R (Fig. 255). Cut fourteen of the blocks from a 3/8-inch dowel-stick (Fig. 262). With a small bit or drill make a pivot hole through the center of the ends of each block, and another hole in the side of the block to run the gun into. Prepare the guns of the shape shown in Fig. 260. Cut them from a dowel-stick 1/8 inch in diameter (Fig. 263). Start a hole in the muzzle end of each gun for the bore.

The Flagstaffs (V, Fig. 255) are 3 inches long. Drill holes for them at the bow and stern of the decks.

The Deck-Rails are made of strips of wire cloth. Cut two strips 1/2 inch wide, one for the superstructure deck, the other for the lower deck. Drive 3/4-inch brads into the decks close to the sides (W, Fig. 264),bend the wire strips around the brads, and with wire bind them to the brads. By fastening Keel Strips X (Figs. 265 and 266) to the bottom of the hull, and mounting wheels upon axels run through screw-eyes screwed into the keel strips (Fig. 266), for

A Running-Gear, your toy battleship will both float upon water and run upon land. Cut off the ends of a pair of spools for wheels ( Y, Fig. 267), and fit 1/4-inch dowel-sticks into them for axles (Z).

Painting. With all work done as directed, the dreadnought will be ready for its coat of battleship - grey. The author suggests that you paint all parts before assembling. It will be easier, and the parts can be allowed to become thoroughly dry before they are assembled, which

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Fig. 264. - Detail Showing How the Deck-Rails are Fastened to Deck

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Fig. 265. - Side-Elevation and Plan of Keel Strips will prevent the sticking of such pivoted parts as the gun-turrets and rapid-fire gun mounts. Surfaces marred while Assembling can be touched up afterwards. There is not much work to putting the model together, when all parts have been properly fitted. In mounting the secondary-

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Fig. 266 Fig. 267

Fig. 266. - Details of Keel Strips and Running-Gear Fig. 267. - Detail of Spool Wheels battery guns, slip the fourteen gun mounts into the holes bored in the deck piece, then nail the deck piece to the hull, and drive brad pivots down through the deck and gun mounts, into the hull. Figure 255 indicates very plainly where the funnels, masts and other parts go, and fastening them in place is for the most part simply a job of glueing.