To make a model that would be an exact reproduction of a modern battleship, you would not only have to possess a set of scale drawings of the ship, but an abundance of patience, and a willingness to devote lots of time to the work. The author would be glad if you could make an exact model, because he knows that you would get a great deal of enjoyment and practical experience out of the work, but he suggests that your first model be simple. You can elaborate upon a second model as much as you please.

Fig. 251. - A Superdreadnought Toy Battleship (See Chapter 10 (A Toy Superdreadnought Battleship)).

The way to make a simplified model of a battleship, building, piece of machinery, or any other structure, is to get a picture of it, or to look upon the object itself, and pick out the half dozen or so parts which determine its contour; then reproduce these parts in as nearly the correct proportion as you can. Take the author's model, shown in the photograph of Fig. 251, for example. The essential parts are not many. They are the hull, deck, masts, funnels, main-battery guns and turrets, and the secondary-battery guns below the deck. The deck-rails, fighting-tops, and wireless aerial might be omitted without destroying the lines which give the ship its form. Details other than those shown upon the model illustrated can be added if you wish to spend more time upon the work.

Materials. The best material for model making is white pine, but cypress, spruce, or any other soft wood, will serve the purpose. For the hull of the battleship model shown in Fig. 251 a piece of 2 by 4 is of the right width and thickness. The funnels, turrets, and fighting-tops also can be cut out of a 2 by 4. A board 5/8 inch thick is required for the superstructure-deck. The masts require a narrow strip of wire cloth with 1/4 inch mesh, and four spools. The deck rails are also made of wire cloth. Spools are used for wheels to mount the model on. The guns are cut from dowel-sticks 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch in diameter, the small gun mounts are cut from a 3/8-inch dowel-stick. The pins connecting the various parts are cut from 1/4-inch dowel-sticks. Button-moulds 1 1/4 inches in diameter fit over the ends of the gun turret pivots.

Fig. 252. - Plan and Side Elevation of Hull

Figure 252 shows a plan and side elevation of The Hull, with all of the dimensions necessary for cutting it out. Figure 253 shows the completed hull. The curves of the ends should be alike, and the best way to get them alike is to draw a center-line lengthwise, and another center-line crosswise of the block; then mark out one-half of the outline of one side, drawing the straight line with a ruler, the curved line freehand. Trace this much upon tissue-paper, reverse the paper, and transfer the line each side of the center-lines, to complete the outline. First, cut out the block roughly with a saw, then finish up close to the outline with a plane, and sandpaper the edges smooth.

Fig. 253. - The Completed Hull

The Superstructure-Deck (B, Figs. 254 and 255) may be marked out by placing the hull block upon a board 5/8 inch thick, and marking out around its sides. The deck

Fig. 254 - Plan and Side Elevation of Superstructure-Deck piece is a trifle more than two-thirds of the length of the hull. The dimensions are on the diagrams (Fig. 254).

Openings for the guns must be cut in the deck piece along the side edges. The openings are made by boring 1/2-inch holes 1/2 inch deep (Figs. 251 and 255). They are located in Fig. 254. The centers are placed 1/8 inch inside of the

Fig. 255. - Detail Showing How the Superstructure-Deck, Funnels, Masts, Fighting-Tops, Gun-Turrets, and Wireless Aerial are Assembled edges, so that brads can be driven through the centers for pivots for the guns. Bore the holes before cutting out piece B, so there will be no danger of splitting the edges. Be careful to bore all holes of equal depth.