The spout of the can forms the lantern chimney, and needs no alteration. For ventilation, punch several holes
Fig. 528. - Tin-Can Candle-Holder
Fig. 529. - Another Tin-Can Candle-Holder
Fig.530. - How Can Bottom is Cut to Receive Candle through the lantern sides, near the bottom, as indicated. A varnish-can has a tin handle, but it would become too hot to hold; and, because it is soldered in place, it would pull off if the solder is heated to the melting point. Therefore, it is best to break off the handle, and substitute a bale like that shown in Fig. 521. This is made of a parcel handle (Fig. 522), and a piece of heavy wire 24 inches long. Remove the hooked wire of the parcel handle, and in its place slip the long piece of wire. Bend the wire ends to the shape shown in Fig. 521, slip them through holes punched through the lantern-top and ends (Fig. 520), and bend up and over the standing part of the wire (Fig. 519).
The first step in making
The Lard-Pail Candle Lantern shown in Figs. 526 and 527 consists in
FlG. 531. - Candle Light-Fixture
Fig. 532. - Bicycle-Lamp Bracket Light-Fixture
Fig. 533. - Candle Lamp-Post
Fig. 534. - Candle-Holder for Lamp-Post cutting a hole in one side of the pail midway between the top and bottom, of the right diameter so the candle will make a snug fit. Then remove one end of the bale, bend it over to the pail bottom, and fasten the wire in the hole. As the candle burns down, push it up through the hole.
The Tin-Can Candle-Holder shown in Fig. 528 may be made out of almost any kind of can at hand. Run a piece of wire down through a hole pierced through the can bottom, twist it into the form of a handle, and wrap it with twine. Fill the can with earth to hold the candle upright. Another Tin - Can Candle - Holder is shown in Fig. 529. Cut two slits in the can bottom, one crossing the other (Fig. 530), and bend down the four points of tin to make an opening of the right size to stick the candle in. Point a stake on the lower end for a support, and tack the can to its side. Drive the stake into the ground wherever you wish to have light. The Candle Light-Fixture in Fig. 531 requires four wooden strips. Near each end of a strip 16 inches long, drive four nails to form candle-holders. For reflectors, tack two can covers to a strip 15 inches long, with centers the same distance apart as the candle-holder centers, and connect this strip with the candle-holder strip by means of a pair of narrow strips in the manner shown.
If you want to hang this fixture from a tent ridge-pole, bore a hole through each of the vertical strips near the top, and cut a peg long enough to drive through the holes. Then screw a screw-eye into the ridge-pole, and slip the peg through the holes and screw-eye.
The Bicycle-Lamp Bracket Light-Fixture shown in Fig. 532 is easily set up, by driving a stake into the ground, and fastening the lamp bracket to its top.
A Candle Lamp-Post like that in Fig. 533 is quickly made. A lard-pail or other tin pail of about that size, and a short pole or tree stump, are required. The first thing to do is to perforate the side of the can, using the point of a nail or a nail-set. The holes can be made in a hit-or-miss fashion, or you can work out a design. You might form the word "welcome" with the perforations as indicated. Make a few vent holes in the can bottom.
When the can has been perforated, erect the post. Drive four nails through the can cover into the post top, to form the candle-holder (Fig. 534). The can is easily removed from and adjusted to the cover.
Trench Candles like those that boys have made for soldiers fighting in the European war, are good camp lights (Fig. 535). Take eight or nine strips of newspaper of single-column width (Fig. 536), and roll them tightly upon a pencil or small round stick (Fig. 537). Bind the roll with wire (Fig. 538), then drop it into a pan of melted paraffin, and
Fig. 535-539 - Trench Candle and How to Make It let it become saturated. A stick with tin fastened around its top to protect the wood (Fig. 539) makes a good trench-candle support.