Whether you camp out in the woods or in the back yard, you will find the lamps, lanterns, and other light fixtures shown in this chapter well worth having.
The Varnish-Can Lantern shown in Fig. 519 is a dandy candle lantern. You can procure a varnish-can or oil-can from almost any painter. Perhaps it will be a dirty old can gobbed up inside and out with hardened oil or paint That does not matter in the least. If the can is not too badly dented, accept it. Dried oil or paint can be removed by stuffing the can with paper or excelsior, then taking the can outdoors and lighting the contents. It is best to leave the burning until after the lantern lens opening has been cut, so there will be plenty of draft to keep the paper burning.
Two openings must be cut, a circular opening in the front of the can for the lens, (Fig. 520), and a slot in the top, close to the front, and extending from side to side through which to slide the lens (Fig. 520 and 523). The cutting is most easily done with a can-opener. If mother has the improved kind of can-opener, with a center point that you jab into the can, and a cutter that you adjust to the diameter of opening you want to cut, then swing about the center, you will not have to describe a circle in pencil to locate the circular lens opening. But if mother's can-opener is of the old-fashioned kind, it will require only a little more care to make it follow the circumference of a described circle. Ragged edges left by the cutting can be made smooth with a file. The can-opener will only separate the tin, it will not cut any away; therefore, after cutting the slot in the can top, you must take a pair of pincers and pinch the front raw edge of the tin tight against the can front, because the slot must be wide enough for a piece of glass to slip through.
A 5-by-7 camera plate is of the
Fig. 520. - Detail of Varnish-Can Lantern Shown in Fig. 519
Figs. 521 and 522. - Detail of Handle right size for the lantern lens for a gallon-can. If you cannot get such a plate, you probably can find a piece of glass that can be cut down to these dimensions. With a 10-cent glass cutter cutting is easy. You should own one of these, because it will be of frequent use in your workshop. Guides must be provided for the glass to slide between (A, Fig. 523). These are made of strips of tin 3/4 inch wide and 7 inches long, cut from a tomato can, and they are bolted in position with stove-bolts 3/8 inch long (5,Fig.523). Punch the holes for the bolts through the lantern front, and through the guide strips, with a nail or brad-awl. Space the holes so they will come towards the ends of theguide strips, and place them at the right
Fig. 523. - Detail Showing Inside of Lantern distance apart width wise of the can so the glass lens will slide between the stove-bolts. Screw one nut on to each stove-bolt, to come between the lantern-front and guide strip A, then slip the guide strips on to the bolts, and fasten in position with nuts screwed on to the stove-bolts. Stove-
Figs. 524 and 525. - Details of Candle-Holder
Figs. 526 and 527. - Lard-Pail Candle Lantern bolt C (Fig. 523) forms a lug for the bottom edge of the glass to rest upon. Place it about 6 1/2 inches below the top of the can, so when the glass is in position its top edge will project far enough above the lantern top to be easily gripped by your fingers, when you open the lantern for lighting or extinguishing the candle.
The candle-holder is made of a piece of tin cut the shape of D (Fig. 524), with a hole pierced through its center through which to slip the nail F (Fig. 525). Nail F must be driven through the center of a stick E (Figs. 523 and 525), cut of the right length to fit width wise across the inside of the can bottom, and its point must be filed sharp like a tack point, because the candle is to be pushed down upon it. The holder is completed by tacking the tin piece D to strip E, placing a tack each side of nail F, then bending up the four ears at the proper points to make a pocket that will hold a candle of standard size. Fasten strip E in the lantern bottom by driving nails through the can sides into the stick ends.