Before putting on the desk-top, build the base. The packing-box's dimensions, and Fig. 182, will determine the size of this. Figure 189 shows the way to assemble the end lattice-work legs. When you have prepared the two sections, nail the upper ends to the ends of the desk. Care must be taken to get the legs of equal length, so the desk will stand evenly. Cut the lower shelf and fasten it between the lattice-strips as shown (Figs. 182 and 183), and cut and fasten the back strips to the back edge of the shelf, and to the back of the box. (Fig. 180). A strip corresponding to the back strips, lapped over the front edges of the desk, and the edges of the side strips (Figs. 176 and 179) will form a finish to the desk front. A block fastened between each of these strips and the bottom shelf, will give support to the lower end of the front strips, and will brace the side strips (Fig. 176).

After you have hinged the front drop-leaf in place, nail a strip to the inner face of strip B, allowing it to project as a stop for the drop-leaf to strike against. Attach a spring-catch to the center of the top of the drop-leaf, and attach a check-chain at each side of the drop-leaf, to screw-eyes (Fig. 183), to prevent the leaf from dropping farther than the position shown. The top boards should now be fitted in place. Cut them of the right dimensions to make projections of the width shown. (Figs. 182 and 183).

Finishing. Rub down all of the woodwork with sandpaper before applying a finish. You can stain the woodwork with a stain made of oil paint thinned with turpentine, or you can paint it, or you can shellac and varnish it. If the wood is in good condition and of uniform color, you can shellac and varnish it; otherwise, do not attempt this method. If the wood is not good, painting will afford the best opportunity for concealing knots, cracks and other defects, because after the first coat of paint has dried, you can fill in putty, and the second coat of paint will cover it. Putty sticks best after one coat of paint has been applied. White enamel makes a good finish for a bedroom desk.

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Fig. 184. - First Step in Preparing Packing-Box for Desk Fig. 185. - Top to Pocket Fig. 186. - Drop-Leaf for Desk Front

Figs. 187-188. - Details of Pigeon-Holes Fig. 189. - End Lattice-Strip Legs

After you have completed your desk, you will want to make A Desk Stool. Of course you can use an ordinary straight-back chair to sit on, but a stool designed along the lines of the desk will be more in keeping. Figure 177 shows a stooldesigned to go with the desk. You will notice that the designs of the two are similar. The stool legs have been made heavier than the desk legs, which is necessary, of course, because the stool will receive rougher usage, and it must be strong enough to withstand it.

A grocery-box forms the top of the stool, the legs and their braces are cut out of a % -inch board, and the finishing-strips are pieces of lattice-strips or laths planed smooth, 1/4-inch thick and 1 1/4 inches wide. The box used in the model was 9 inches deep, 11 inches wide, and 15 inches long. The width and length were exactly right, but it was necessary to saw 3 inches from the sides and ends (Fig. 190) to make the box of the right depth of 6 inches. Square a line around the sides and ends, remove any nails that happen to come in the way, and saw off the portion above the line.

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Fig. 190. - Box with Sides Cut Down. Top of Stool Shown in Fig. 177

The legs are shown in place, in Fig. 191. Their upper ends must be cut as shown in Fig. 192 to fit over the ends of the box, so their outer edge will come flush with the box ends. The length of the legs should be such that the measurements from the floor to the top of the stool will be 18 inches (Fig. 193). Cut the leg strips 7/8 inch thick by 2 inches wide, fasten them in the box corners, as shown, with nails driven through the box bottom into their ends and through the box sides and ends into their faces and edges. Cut the leg braces (B, Fig. 191) 7/8 inch square to fit between the legs 3 inches above the lower ends.