The Front Sight (E) is shown in detail in Fig. 454. Figure 455 shows the shape and size to cut the strip required. A piece of a tin can will do. Trim off the ends of the strip as shown, bend the piece to fit around the barrel, and hammer the ends together.

The Rear Sight is made to fold flat against the top of the barrel (F, Figs. 452 and 456). When laid down, the

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Fig. 453. - Pattern of Stock and Barrel of Drill Gun shown in Fig. 452 position is known as battle sight; when raised, the semicircular notch in the upper edge is known as the open sight, the hole beneath it is known as the peep sight. Cut a piece of tin of the size shown in Fig. 457, for leaf F, and turn the lower end over a piece of wire (G, Fig. 458). Bend the ends of the piece of wire into loops, and tack these loops to the sides of the gun-stock (Fig. 456). The leaf will turn up and down with the wire as an axis. Tack H (Fig 456, driven close to the hinge of the leaf, will act as a stop when the leaf is raised, and can be used as the rear sight when the leaf is laid flat.

Finish the Drill-Gun in the manner suggested for the other model. Then it will be ready for

The Sling (J, Fig. 452), without which it would not be complete. An excellent sling that will resemble more or less closely a modern rifle sling, can be made of an old pair

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Fig. 454. - Detail of Front Sight Fig. 455 Fig. 455. - Pattern of Front Sight

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Fig. 457 Fig. 458 Fig. 456

Figs. 456-458. - Details of Rear Sight Drop-Leaf

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Fig. 460 Fig. 459

Figs. 459 and 460. - Details of Sling of suspenders. Figure 459 shows a sling so made. Separate the suspenders where crossed (Fig. 460), cut off the button-hole tips on the rear ends, and sew the two lengths together. The snaps on the front ends will then snap over the eyes 7, screwed into the stock (Fig. 452), and the slide-buckles can be used to shorten the straps. For the eyes use bent-over screw-eyes (I, Fig. 452). Stain the sling with walnut stain, to make it look as nearly like leather as possible.

The Weight of a Spring-field is 8069 pounds. Your drill-gun, even if made of heavy wood, will be extremely light by comparison.

To Increase the Weight of Drill-Guns, the author has found it a good scheme to bore several holes in the stock and barrel, and pour these full of melted lead. In doing this, be careful to keep the center-of-balance at about the position of the rear-sight leaf.

A Bayonet is easily made out of wood (Fig. 461). Cut

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Fig. 461. -Bayonet

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Fig. 462. -Scabbard the blade of the shape and size of A (Fig. 463), and build up the grip end with the blocks B. Bend a piece of heavy wire into a double loop, like C (Fig. 465) for the guard, and cut a groove across the inner face of blocks B for the wire

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Fg. 463. - Detail of Bayonet

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Fig. 465 Fig. 466 Fig. 464

Figs. 464-466. - How Grip of Bayonet Attaches to Gun

Fig. 467. - Gun with Fixed Bayonet to fit into (Figs. 463 and 464). Cut a slot 2 inches long in the end of the blade (Fig. 464). Nail the grip blocks to the end of the blade, and then shape the assembled grip as shown in Fig. 467. If the loops of the guard have been bent properly, they will slip over the muzzle of the barrel. To hold the end of the grip, fasten the metal strip D (Fig. 466) to the stock, to fit in the slot cut in the end of the blade (Fig. 464).

Finish the bayonet by first sandpapering the wood very carefully, making the edge sharp and straight. Then paint the blade with aluminum paint, and finish the grip with walnut stain.

A Scabbard for the bayonet is shown in Fig. 462. Make this out of two pieces of cardboard, glued together along the edges, with a covering of khaki-colored cloth. Make the top loop large enough for your belt to run through.