A Cretonne or Denim Covering is best for the sides of the sewing-stand. A square yard cut in half, making two strips 1/2 yard wide by 1 yard long, is ample. Preparing this covering will be mother's work entirely. A double hem must be made along the ends of the strips, for the upper dowels B to run through. If you have glued up the framework these hems will have to be sewed over the sticks, of course. If you want to, you can wait until the strips have been hemmed before you glue together the framework parts. Run each strip from an upper dowel-stick down to and around the lower stick on the same side, then across to the lower stick opposite, and then up to the upper dowel-stick on that side. The
Fig. 141. - Waste-Basket strips will cross each other on the bottom, therefore the sewing-stand will have a double bottom.
The Waste-Basket illustrated in Fig. 141 has the same framework construction as the sewing-stand. The frame-work is shown in Fig. 142, and a cross-section with dimensions of the parts is shown in Fig. 143.
For covering the waste-basket, you will require half a
Fig. 142. - Completed Framework of Waste-Basket Fig. 143. - Cross Section of Framework yard more material than was used for the sewing-stand. Cut the cloth into two strips, and put it on in the same way that the sewing-stand sides and bottom are put on.
A Work-Bag on a Folding Support, like that shown in Fig. 144, has several good points in its favor. When the frames are spread, the bag is held open so its contents can be reached easily; when the frames are folded, the bag is closed, and in this compact form the work-bag may be hung up in a clothes-closet, or stood behind a door or in some other out-of-the-way place. The bag support (Fig. 145) is made of two frames (Fig.
146). One of these frames is enough smaller than the other to slip inside of it (Fig.
145). The frame diagrams (Fig. 146) show the dimensions for the strips required. Tack crosspieces B and C to sticks A, so the upper crosspieces will be 1/2 inch below the top of strips A, and so the lower crosspieces will be 8 inches above the bottom. Locate the exact center of the length of strips A, and at this point pivot the frames together on screws driven from the outer strips into the inner ones, as shown in Fig. 145.
Figure 147 shows the piece of cretonne required for
The Bag. Cut the cloth 32 inches square, turn over two opposite edges to a depth of 2 inches, make a hem in each for a ribbon, and make a second hem to form a heading. To fasten the cloth to the support, tie the ends of the ribbons
Fig. 144. - Work-Bag on Folding Support run through the hems, to the ends of upper crosspieces B and C Then turn the unhemmed edges of the cloth over crosspieces B and C, make hems, and above each hem form a heading.
The Fancywork-Box shown in Fig. 148 requires little carpentry. After you have procured a box of the size
Fig. 145. - Folding Support of Work-Bag
Fig. 146. - Details of Frames for Work-Bag Support desired, all that it is necessary to do is fasten together the cover boards with a couple of battens nailed across them as shown in Fig. 150, unless the boards have been lost or broken, in which case you will have to make a new cover. Place the battens close enough to the cover ends, and make them of the right length, so when the cover is placed on the box the battens will prevent the cover from shifting length-wise and crosswise. By making this provision, hinges will be unnecessary.
The Box Must be Covered to conceal the roughness of the boards. A pretty figured cretonne looks well for the outside, and a plain colored lining is best for the inside. Before putting the covering on, tack a layer of cotton wadding to the wood, for padding. Screw a brass handle to the center of each end of the box.