Figure 149 shows how to tack

A Cloth Pocket and Elastic Tapes to the inside of the cover; also how to make

Spool-Spindles by driving nails into the cover, and slipping rubber bands over the nail heads (Fig. 151) to keep the spools from dropping off.

The Fancywork-Box with Legs shown in Fig. 152 requires little more work to make than the box just described. The legs are strips 2 inches wide, 1 inch thick, and from 14 to 20 inches long according to the height of box you want. Sixteen inches is right if the box is to be used as a bench to sit on. The leg strips

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Fig. 147. - Cretonne for Work-Bag must be of equal length, and they must be nailed to the box corners so the tops are even with the top of the box (Fig. 153).

The cover of the fancywork-box should be wide enough and long enough to project 3/4 inch over the sides all around. Therefore you must use the cover boards from a larger box. Nail a pair of battens across the boards to hold them together (Fig. 154). These strips can be placed upon the under side of the boards in such a position that they will keep the cover from slipping from side to side, and from end to end, when it is placed upon the fancywork - box. By making the cover to lift off, you will save yourself the trouble of putting on hinges.

The Cretonne Covering. Perhaps you can get

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Fig. 148. - A Fancywork-Box

Fig. 149. - Arrangement of Pockets and Spool-Racks Fig.150. - How to Batten Together the Cover Boards Fig. 151. - A Spool-Rack a large enough remnant in cretonne for the fancywork-box. The care with which you put this on the box will determine whether or not the box will be a success. Perhaps you had better ask mother to help you. Because grocery boxes are more or less rough, and the boards are uneven, it is

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FlG. 152. - A Fancywork Box with Legs best to cover the wood with some other cloth first, for a foundation for the cretonne. Stretch the cretonne over each surface neatly, and use gimp tacks for fastening it. Line the inside of the box with plain colored cambric. Figure 155 suggests how the inside of the box may be divided into compartments by cloth partitions.

The Sammy Spool-Holder shown in Fig. 156 will be a delight to mother because of its novelty. Cutting out the figure of Sammy is a simple scroll-saw problem. Review what has been said about this work in Chapter II.

The patterns shown in Figs. 157 and 158 have been made full-size, for a soldier boy standing 6 inches high which is high enough for a spool-holder. You can take tissue-paper and make a tracing of the outlines, then transfer these on to your working material. Inasmuch as it was thought that you might wish to enlarge or reduce the figure, squares have been drawn checker-board fashion on the pattern.

When you cut out the figure, saw just as close to the outline as possible. Be careful not to saw over the line. After cutting, finish the edges with sandpaper. The upper portion of the body (A, Fig. 157) is connected with the lower portion (B) by means of a dowel-stick (C). Glue the upper end of the stick in a hole bored in the upper portion of the body, and whittle the lower end of the stick so that

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Fig. 153. - How the Legs are Nailed to the

Box Ends Fig. 154. - The Completed Cover Fig. 155. - How the Box is Partitioned off into

Compartments it will fit loosely in a hole of the same size bored in the lower portion of the body (B). Sammy's feet (Fig. 158) are made large enough to give him a solid footing to stand on. Cut a slot in this block and fit the end of the legs into it.

A Needle Forms Sammy's Bayonet, and a small hole must be drilled in the gun to stick it into.

Paint Sammy's Clothes khaki color, his gun brown; and mark his features, and outline his clothes, with black paint.

If mother knits, she will appreciate

A Yarn-Winder like that shown in Fig. 159. It does not take long to make one.

The winder arms are two wooden strips (A and B, Fig. 160), pivoted to the top of a base block (F, Fig. 165). The fingers at the arm ends are spools (D, Fig. 162).