The Egg-Rack shown in Fig. 75 will go in mother's refrigerator, or will stand upon her pantry shelf. Figure 84 shows a side view of the rack, Fig. 85 shows a plan of the shelf B which supports the eggs, and Fig. 86 shows one of the end pieces A.
Prepare end A first. To save you trouble in marking out the ends, a pattern of the hen is shown in Fig. 86, one-half full-size. It will only be necessary to reproduce this twice the size shown. The squares drawn checkerboard fashion upon the pattern will make enlarging easy. Rule off upon your working material a similar series of squares, but make them 1/2 inch square
Fig. 84. - Side View of Egg-Rack Shown in Fig. 75
Fig: 85. - Diagram of Shelf instead of 1/4 inch. Letter the top ends of the vertical lines, and number one end of each horizontal line, as shown. Then, upon the enlarged squares reproduce the lines exactly as they are shown upon the small squares. The letters and numbers will help you locate quickly the large squares that correspond to the small squares. Cutting out these pieces makes a good scroll-saw exercise. If you haven't a scroll-saw, a hand bracket-saw (Fig. 18) or coping-saw (Fig. 19) will do the work nicely. Basswood is good material to use for these pieces, but you can use any other firm piece of wood that will hold together without splitting or chipping. Figure 85 shows a diagram of the upper shelf of the rack. If you haven't a bit large enough for boring holes of the required size, bore a ring of holes with a small bit, split out the wood between the holes with a chisel, and trim up to
Fig. 86. - Pattern of End-Pieces of Egg-Rack Shown in Fig. 75 the circumference of the large hole with a chisel or jack-knife; then smooth up the hole with a rat-tail file and sandpaper. The lower shelf or brace (C, Fig. 84) need not be more than 2 1/4 inches wide.
Fasten together the pieces with glue and finishing-nails. Then sandpaper all surfaces carefully, and give the rack a couple of coats of shellac.
Figure 87 shows
A Desk Telephone Directory that is handy for keeping in readiness for instant reference, in alphabetical order, the names and telephone numbers of persons called more or less frequently, and numbers subject to call in emergencies.
Figure 91 shows base A of the card-rack, upright B, and the groove strips C which form the card pocket. Pieces A and B can be cut out of material 1/4-inch thick. Cut the rabbets in the edges of strips C with a chisel. Fasten upright B to the center of base A with glue and brads, and
Fig. 91. - Parts of Telephone Directory Shown in Fig. 87 fasten strips C to upright B so the lower ends rest on base A, and so the groove rabbets are 2 3/8 inches apart, which will allow plenty of clearance space for the directory cards.
Figure 92 is a diagram of the twenty-four directory cards. It shows the size of each card, and how to cut the index tabs. If you cannot get light-weight cards for the directory, cut up stiff writing-paper as a substitute. The twenty-four cards must be enough less than 1/8 inch thick so they will slip in and out of the rack easily.
This same form of rack can be used for
A Time-Card Rack, to hold suburban time-cards for handy reference. Instead of preparing strips for the card pocket, you can screw four brass screw-hooks into upright B at the points indicated in Fig. 91. The hooks will hold the edges of one or two time-cards as satisfactorily as the strips would.
A Wall Telephone Directory, or a wall time-card rack, can be made by reducing base A to a width of 1 inch, and
Fig. 92. - Cards for Telephone Directory Shown in Fig. 87 fastening a hanger at the top of upright B and another at the bottom, for fastening to the wall.
The Necktie-Rack shown in Fig. 88 is an improvement upon the usual form of rack, because there is only one center support for the tie-rod, which leaves the ends open, and makes it easy to slip ties on and off the rack.
Fig. 93. - Parts of Necktie-Rack Shown in Fig. 88
Figure 93 shows diagrams of back block A, bracket block B, and tie-rod C. A carpenter's dowel-stick is required for rod C. The bevelled edge of back block A can be cut either with a plane or a chisel. Fasten the rod in the bracket hole with glue, being careful to center it exactly, and fasten a hanger to the top of back block A and another to the bottom. Small screw-eyes will do for hangers. Regular picture-frame hangers can be bought at the hardware store.
The Necktie- or Towel-Rack shown in Fig. 89 has a 16-inch tie-rod, and this is supported by a pair of brackets, each made like bracket B (Fig. 93). The back board is shown in Fig. 94, and the centers for the bracket blocks indicated on it.