The Book-Ends shown in Fig. 72 make an excellent rack for a few books to stand on the library table or the top of a desk. There is not much cutting to be done. Figure 79 shows dimensions for the base, upright and bracket pieces that make up an end. The dotted lines shown on the base and upright pieces in the diagram, represent holes.
These should be bored as indicated, and filled with melted lead, before the pieces are assembled. The purpose of the lead is to make the book-ends heavy enough so the pressure of the books between them will not upset them. Nail the upright piece to the edge of the base piece, and the triangular bracket pieces to both the base and the upright. Use 1-inch nails for nailing. Before nailing, coat the edges of the pieces with glue.
Fig. 80. - Parts of the Candle-Stick Shown in Fig. 73
The Candle-Stick shown in Fig. 73 is made up of six blocks of wood of the shapes and sizes shown in Fig. 80. The hole for the candle should be bored through the cap block and part way in the top of the upright block, before the pieces are cut down to the finished dimensions, so there will be little danger of splitting the wood.
Use glue and 3/4-inch and 1-inch brads for assembling the pieces. Nail the .base block to the under side of the upright block, and the cap block to the top; then nail the three handle pieces together and fasten them to the base block.
The tray of
The Match-Holder and Tray shown in Fig. 74 is a tin can cover 4 inches in diameter. The author is wandering from his chapter subject "Small Gifts in Wood," in presenting this here, because it is made of tin, but he believes that the nature of the article warrants his including it among the small gifts. A coffee-can cover is of about the right size for the tray (A, Fig. 81). The match-holder consists of a U-shaped piece of tin (B, Fig. 82), a wooden block (C), and the sleeve cover of a safety-match box (D). The sleeve cover of the match-box slips between the uprights of tin strip B, fitting down over block C. Then the safety-matches removed from the box are dropped into the open top of the sleeve, as shown in Fig. 74.
Figure 82 shows the pattern for tin strip B. With an old pair of scissors, or tin-snips, cut off the ends of a tin can, then cut through the can sides, cutting parallel with the side seam, and bend out the tin into a flat strip. Upon the strip mark out a piece of the dimensions given in Fig. 82. The dotted lines of the diagram indicate where the tin is to be folded. The ends are to be turned over upon themselves and hammered down to make stiff upper edges, the folds at the center are to be right-angle folds. In making the center folds, bend the tin over a box edge or other sharp edge. Be careful to make the distance between the center folds exactly 7/8 inch, as shown.
Figure 83 shows the dimensions of block C. This block is of just the right size for the match-box sleeve-cover to slip over. Fasten it to tin strip B with tacks, placing it halfway between the tin uprights. After fastening strip B to block C, place the holder on the center of the tray A and fasten with two short nails, as shown.
Fig. 81. - Parts of the Match-Holder and Tray
Shown in Fig. 74 Fig. 82. - Pattern for U-Shaped Support FIG. 83. - Pattern for Base Block
To complete the match-holder and tray, give it a coat of radiator bronze or aluminum paint.