The stock for this and the nineteen following exercises should be 8 inches long by 1 3/4 inches square. This exercise is to teach the use of the roughing

Fig. 10. Stopping the Lathe and Testing the Surface.

Fig. 11. The Cylinder.

gouge, and some of the uses of the skew chisel. Be sure to have in mind what is said in Lesson 1 about putting the work in the lathe and adjusting the rest, etc. After you are certain that everything is all right, slowly shift the belt so that the piece will revolve. Fig. 184 shows the left hand grasping the belt shifter.

Take the posi tion shown in Fig. 12, with the hands and roughing gouge held as in Fig. 13 or 14. Whether the position taken is similar to that in Fig. 13 or 14 is not important, In the latter, the hand is turned to hinder the shavings from striking the face. By comparing Figs. 20, 41, 44, 47, 53, etc., it will be observed that the fingers of the left hand are used in a variety of positions. This is because

Fig.12. Position While Using a Roughing Gouge.

the jar of the lathe tends to numb and tire them if they are used long in exactly the same position.

The points to be kept in mind are: First, the tools must be firmly held; second, some part of the hand or fingers should come in contact with the rest; third, the angle should be such that the tools will cut rather than scrape; fourth, the tool should be firmly held upon the tee rest, and also upon the piece which is being turned; fifth, the angle which the tool makes with the line of the centers is very important, and must be carefully determined for each tool and each piece of work.

By comparing Figs. 13 and 14 you will see that the roughing gouge is held at right angles to the centers, and at as oblique an angle vertically as will allow the cutting edge to enter the wood. Be sure that your gouge is sharp. Read carefully what is said in Part III in regard to sharpening gouges.

Fig. 13. Using Roughing Gouge.

Do not attempt to cut the piece rapidly, but rather see how fine and how even you can cut the shavings. Move the gouge the entire length of the piece. If the piece were longer, you would turn

Fig. 14. Hand Shielding Shavings from the Face.

down a place at one end, and then little by little work towards the other end, finishing a small part of the surface each time you move the gouge from left to right, as in turning the table leg (Fig. 237).

After you have cut off a little of the piece, stop the lathe, as shown in Fig. 10, and examine the work to see how much has been cut away, and whether the gouge is cutting smoothly or tearing the surface. Study the positions of the tools in Figs. 12, 13, 14, 100, and 113.

If the roughing gouge is held properly, it will cut quite smoothly, as the shape of the end of the gouge is such that a shaving is cut. Should you use a turning gouge for roughing, you would discover that it does not cut as freely nor as rapidly, and, hence, the common firmer gouge is used in turning as a roughing gouge; or else a turning gouge is ground like a firmer gouge.

In days gone by, when tools were more expensive and labor cheaper, the turner used as few tools as possible, and therefore used his large turning gouge for roughing. At present such a use of the turning gouge must be considered very much out of place. Should the wood to be turned be so rough or knotty that the light gouge might be broken, it would be proper to use the heavy turning gouge.

In roughing the edges of pieces on the faceplate, as shown in Figs. 124 and 125, the turning gouge is always used. Continue using the gouge until the piece is cylindrical the entire length. The gouge will not produce a straight finished surface no matter how carefully used. To give the work the even, glossy surface, a turner's skew chisel is required.

For smoothing work of this size, a 1-inch skew chisel may be used. It should be held as shown in

Fig. 15, 16, or 17. Each of these views shows the skew chisel held at a slightly different angle. Also see Figs. 27 and 29.

When the skew chisel is held as shown in Fig. 16 or 17, the point is not as liable to catch and injure the work, but it will not cut so smoothly, and will dull much more rapidly, especially if the piece is cross-grained. Begin by holding it so that the cutting edge is

Fig. 15. Smoothing a Cylinder (See Figs. 16 and 17).

Fig. 16. Using a Skew Chisel.

Fig. 17. Using a Skew Chisel (See Figs. 15 and 16).

at quite an angle to the center line of the piece (Fig. 16 or 17), and gradually change the position at which you hold it, until the cutting edge is nearly parallel to the center line (Fig. 15).

Observe carefully that the skew chisel is held as shown in Fig. 16 while cutting toward the left, and as shown in Fig. 15 or 17 while cutting toward the right. It is very important that you change the position of the chisel in this manner, for it not only rests upon the tee rest, but also upon the piece being turned; and if you attempt to cut at the end of the piece with the chisel, unsupported by the wood, it will be quite sure to go deeper than you wish, and may spoil the piece.

Try to make the surface of the cylinder smooth, practicing near the right-hand end. Then smooth a space about 1 1/2 inches long at the left-hand end. As this is your first piece, you will probably not be able to make the piece smooth and straight its entire length, but you should make it quite smooth near the left-hand end. Do not attempt to smooth the ends of this, or any other piece used for the first twenty exercises. On pieces of this character the ends are not usually smoothed; and if they were to be smoothed, the operation would be found to be quite difficult. Remember that none of the first sixteen exercise pieces are to be sandpapered.