A building is inclosed by sheathing, placing window and door frames in position, putting on building paper, siding and shingling.

If a frame is braced by oblique studs at the corners and possibly in the middle, the sheathing-boards are nailed on horizontally; but, if not braced by studs, it should be temporarily secured by oblique boards nailed on the inside of the studs, and the sheathing put on at about an angle of 45°. In Fig. 1, a represents the foundation, b the sill, c, c the studs, e, e the sheathing, which passes down over the sills, and is firmly nailed throughout.

Sheathing is usually composed of rough hemlock boards, 10" wide, 1" thick, and 13' long.

The water-table, g, Fig. 1, is specially molded to cover the joint between the foundation and sills, and mitered at the corners. Next, the window and door frames are fastened in position, with the hanging-stile3 against the sheathing, and the corner-boards, i, carefully nailed in place. These boards are usually 1 1/4" thick, one 2" wide and the other 3 1/4" wide, and beaded, chamfered, or molded on the outer edge. The building paper is fastened to the sheathing with tacks, a little in advance of the siding (f, Fig. 1).

The siding is now put on, beginning at the bottom (h, h, Fig. 1). The joints between the boards are marked with try-square and pencil, and sawed very carefully to keep out wind and rain; the joints should always come opposite a stud for secure nailing. Two nails are driven at each stud, one in the middle of the board and the other just above the lap, as shown at j. Other forms of siding are shown at k and I, but are not as good as that at h.

Fig. 2 shows the preparation for shingles and the manner of putting them on. The first three layers (c, d, e) are put on overlapping, as shown at b; then, 6" from the edge, a chalk-line is marked on the layer, e, and the next row, f, nailed with this line as a guide. The projecting part of the roof is finished with dressed boards, of which the one covering the ends of the rafters (a, Fig. 2) is put on last and should project about 1/2" below that covering the under sides.

Fig. 3 shows a form of gutter used on overhanging roofs, like that of Fig. 2. Fig. 4 shows the form of the usual tin-lined gutter.

In all work that is to be painted, the nails must be punched.

Ex. 30.

Fig. 1

Fig. 3

Fig. 4