Lathes, used exclusively for wood turning, have no back motion, and in many instances not even cone pulleys. This is owing to the necessity for a uniformly high speed (1000 to 2000 turns per minute), and the fact that the average diameter of the work is small. In many respects there is very little difference between lathes used for wood and iron, so the description given of the parts of the latter may, to some extent, apply here. The countershaft is, however, frequently dispensed with, and in its place a slack pulley is fitted on the spindle, by the side of the driving one, so that the belt may be moved from the one to the other by hand. Wood turning lathes are provided with a variety of cup chucks, and several holding and driving adjuncts, among them the fly centre, which imparts the motion to the work, besides supporting it. The " T" rest is all that is required, as the tools are entirely worked by hand. They are of a most elementary character, the gouge and the flat turning chisel playing the most important parts. The gouge is ground on the outside, and has its corners removed, leaving a regularly curved cutting edge. Its application is varied, for by means of it the rough stock is reduced to cylindrical form, concave curves are fashioned on the surface of the work, and, by its assistance, hollow or cupped work may be performed. The flat turning chisel is ground equally on both sides to form a thin cutting edge, and at such an angle across as to make the acute corner from 450 to 6o°. By means of it all flat, cylindrical, and convex surfaces are finished, and even many of the flat concave ones are cleaned up without difficulty. After dexterity has been acquired in the manipulation of these tools, so that flat and curved surfaces are formed with ease, many beautiful pieces of work may be produced by judicious combination. Before this stage has been reached, however, many failures will beset the path of the beginner, not the least, by any means, being the tendency of the tools to run in to the work. The proper position of turning chisels is obtained when the under side of the cutting edge is tangent to the surface of the wood, and when the axis of the tool is at a slightly obtuse angle to that of the lathe, the movement of the tool being towards the obtuse angle. The chisel should be so placed that the acute corner of the cutting edge may project over the work, the only part allowed to cut being the half of the edge next the obtuse angle. Neglect of this rule will lead to constant trouble, arising from the acute corner running into the work, which, if bad on a plain cylindrical surface, will be found much worse in turning a bead or convex surface. This is caused by the constantly varying position of the tool, and the absence of any surface on which to support it. Although easy enough to all appearance, the beginner must not be disheartened by repeated failure, for perseverance will, in the end, be rewarded by success. After the difficulties connected with the chisel have been overcome, those met with in the use of the gouge will, in most cases, disappear, because of their similarity. On no account should any of the surfaces be scraped with the tool at right angles, for by such means a good finish can not be obtained on soft materials. Very little should require to be done to turned work after the tools, unless it be a slight touch with the finest glass paper, followed by a handful of the softest turnings. Occasional oiling of the running parts, sharp tools, steady application, and a smoothly running lathe, all combine to produce good work.