It will be found that the cross-grain of the end pieces quickly absorbs the glue, therefore its application must be repeated several times before the usual quantity will remain on the surface. Glue will never hold so strongly in the cross as in the length-way of the grain, consequently little reliance can be placed on the strength of a box in which the cross-grain of the end pieces is merely glued to the sides.

The four sides of the box or "carcase" being "glued up", it must be turned over to ascertain if the edges of the side and end pieces rest fairly on the board; and if at all distorted the "carcase" must be corrected as quickly as possible, while the glue is soft, as any disturbance after the glue begins to set will be fatal to the soundness of the joint. The work may be bound together more closely by screw-clamps, which will also tend to preserve its shape while drying. After the clamps have been adjusted the truth of the work must be again tested, not only on the edges, but also by a square applied from the sides, to discover if the ends be at right angles to them. Before leaving the work to dry, the waste glue which has oozed out at the joints should be removed by a bit of sponge slightly moistened with the hot water in the kettle. If the waste glue were allowed to harden, it would not only be difficult to remove, but would stain the work and give it an unworkmanlike appearance.

The work must not be disturbed for at least four-and-twenty hours, and if the weather be damp, a longer period should be allowed.

When the glue is thoroughly hard the clamps may be removed and the bottom of the box attached. If, on examination, the edges of the "carcase" prove not exactly "fair" they must be dressed carefully by the smoothing-plane, until the bottom fits them closely all round.

Glueing on the bottom of the box is merely a repetition of the process we have just described. It may be found more convenient to keep the bottom closely in contact with the "carcase" while the glue is drying, by a couple of weights instead of the screw-clamps which were used for the sides. After the carcase has been rubbed down firmly on the bottom and the waste glue removed, the box may either be turned upside down, so that the weights may be placed on the bottom, or, being undisturbed, the weights may be supported by a piece of wood placed on the box as a temporary cover.

As the box, however carefully glued together, will require to be finally "finished off" by the smoothing-plane, it will somewhat facilitate the process to allow the extremities of the side pieces to project a very small amount beyond the ends. The bottom may also with advantage be a trifle larger than the exterior dimensions of the carcase. If the work be quite true, and the glueing is well performed, no perceptible provision for the final finish will be required.

Great care must be taken in the finishing to avoid "spalling off" the wood when planing the cross-grain ends of the side pieces. The plane must be used obliquely, and not for the entire length or depth of the ends, the endeavour being to work alternately from the upper and lower edges towards the middle, where the opposite cuts will meet and balance each other.

If we require a board of considerable width, it will be necessary to glue two or more narrow planks edge to edge. To do this successfully the edges of the respective planks which are to be united must be exactly straight and square across. When one of the edges has been carefully shot according to the indications of the "straightedge" it may in its turn be used as a straightedge in working the edge of the plank with which it is to be united. If a little chalk be rubbed evenly all over the true edge, a small portion of the white powder will be deposited on the prominent points of the work, if the former be slightly moved backwards and forwards over the latter in the direction of its length. By removing the material where the chalk has adhered we shall soon bring the edge of the second plank into close contact with that of the first.

When about to glue the boards together one of the pieces must be fixed vertically in the chops of the bench, the lower end being raised a few inches from the floor. The second plank must also be placed in an upright position, and supported by a block of wood at the same height as the first, against which it is allowed to rest obliquely, so that the edges to be glued may form a slight angle with each other. The glue-brush is now run up and down the angle formed by the edges of the boards, and when the cement has been thoroughly worked into the grain of the wood, the edge of the second plank must be brought in contact with that of the first, which is firmly secured in chops of the bench. The second board, which is held by the joiner, must be pressed and rubbed forcibly against the first until the joint begins to feel stiff under the hand, when the plank must be brought into its proper position. A straight-edge should be applied across the face of the board to test its accuracy before removing it from the bench. If the edges which we have just glued together be not exactly square across, the board will prove rounding on one side and hollow on the other. A similar discrepancy may be occasioned by the respective edges of the planks not "bedding" fairly on each other. A critical examination of each side of the board will enable us to discover any such fault, which may be rectified by pressing the plank so as to close the open joint. If the joint appear quite sound, or if the closing of a gap fail to make the work flat, the joint must be separated and rectified by the plane. As such a proceeding would be very unsatisfactory, and waste much time, the greatest care must be taken when shooting the edges to ensure their accuracy. If the work be accurate, the joint must be sponged over to remove the waste glue, and after allowing a few minutes for the glue to set, the board may be carefully removed from the bench by two people, and rested in an inclined position against the wall of the workshop.