This section is from the book "Handy Man's Workshop And Laboratory", by A. Russell Bond. Also available from Amazon: Handy Man's Workshop And Laboratory.
A gas soldering iron may be easily made as follows: A piece of 3/8-inch gas pipe A. 9 inches long, is threaded at both ends. A 1/8 by 3/8-inch reducer B is then screwed on each end of the pipe, and 1 16-inch holes are bored through the reducers, as shown at C. A piece of 1/8-inch gas pipe D is threaded on one end. A small brass plug E, having a 1/16-inch hole through the center, is fastened into the threaded end of the pipe D, and the latter is then screwed into the reducer B. A piece of copper F, 3/8 inch in diameter and 4 inches long, is threaded on one end and screwed into the other reducer B. The opposite end of the copper can be either round, flat, or pointed, as desired. A piece of tubing G, 3 1/2 inches long and large enough in diameter to snugly fit the outside of the reducer, is fastened to it, either by screws or by nicks made with a center punch. The rubber hose H is slipped over the pipe D. The hose can be protected by a spring made of No. 16 B. & S. wire. This will prevent kinking of the hose when the iron is in use.

Fig. 135 - Gas soldering iron.
The pipe A is covered with asbestos or some other poor conductor of heat / to form the handle. The action of the iron is as follows: The gas enters at the pipe A through the hole in the plug F. and mixes with the air that enters through the holes C. The mixture passes out through the holes C in the reducer at the opposite end. where it is to be ignited. The flame is deflected against the iron F by the shield G. This makes a very efficient iron that will solder continuously.
 
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