This section is from the book "The Boy's Book Of Mechanical Models", by William Bushnell Stout. Also available from Amazon: The Boy's Book Of Mechanical Models.
I REMEMBER one autumn spent on a farm during threshing time and what fun we boys had riding loads and making our own threshine machine.
Perhaps some of my readers would like to make one too, so here it is shown in these drawings and you can put through it what you want - oats, or breakfast food, or dried grass. But whatever you throw in at the table G on one end will be thrown out and stacked at the other. When you want to move to a new locality, you can raise the stacker by turning the crank K, thus closing up the table G and the floor or platform P at the other end and off you go. You can pick up the things to make the thresher from around the house.
First you take a cigar box and cut out the front lower end as shown in Figure 1. Then you knock both ends out, being careful not to split the wood.
Along the bottom sides run two strips C of quarter-inch wood from some old box and connect them up front by a cross bar.
At the back they stick out a little, so the platform P, of thin wood from a cigar box or other wood, can be pivoted on them to fold up against the end when you are ready to move.

In front two strips By Figure 1, run out from the sides of the box and are connected a couple of inches from their outer end by a cross bar, as in Figure 3 at d, where the frame of the stacker is shown. At the extreme end of these pieces a spool R, with the enlarged ends trimmed down even, or a piece of broomstick, is pivoted between two brads n, through loose holes in B so it can turn.
Inside the box and toward the rear a second roller made of a spool, as in the drawing of the spool drive, Figure 3, is fixed on a shaft which sticks through a hole in one side of the box, so a spool pulley F can fit on tightly. The other end is pivoted through the opposite side of the box by a brad n. Little disks r of cardboard or tin can be put on both rollers if the belt tends to run off, but this won't bother if you are careful to get the roller in the box exactly parallel with the one R at the end of the pieces B.

The belt is of canvas or cloth or of wide tape and has little strips of wood t sewed or glued across it every inch or less to carry the load. It is run over the two pulleys as shown in Figure 2 and is turned by a crank fastened to spool pulley F.

If you want a shaker on the side, you can run a wire W from a brad on the spool end F to a little crank H fastened to the box side with a brad, as shown in Figures 1 and 3, or you can make a wire crank here and run it clear through the box and have the wooden crank arrangement on the other side of the box from a crank h on the wire H on that side, Figure 5. This crank arm, of course, has to be bent after it is inserted in the sides A.
Before putting the stacker on, fix up the post L, and the wire crank J, running through the sides of the box so it will wind up the string b and, pulling through the hole in L, lift the stacker as shown in Figure 1 and 3. A nail K, fitting loosely into a hole in the side of the box next to the crank can be stuck in when you want to hold the stacker in any set position.
It is easy to see how the doors at the rear are fixed to turn up and are held at the proper place when down by the threads or strings s. Inside the box fix a piece of wood at g running down just far enough to clear the belt, to guide the material down from the platform G.
The wheels can be made of pieces of curtain pole or checker men and fastened on any way you like.
 
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