Assuming that razors of different makes are made of equal quality steel, and equally hardened, any difference in the performance of their duties would appear to be due to a difference in sharpening, it being taken for granted that such points as the skill of the operator, the quality of the shaving soap, etc., were likewise equal. The operation of sharpening a dull razor can be divided into four stages, i.e.. (1) Grinding, (2) Rubbing down, (3) Setting, and (4) Stropping. Grinding is performed by placing the razor squarely on the oilstone, and with its edge in front it is passed along the stone in a circular arc so that all the edge conies in contact with the stone, while at the same time the whole blade is held at an angle of about 10° with the slone. Generally only one stroke is given on each side. Rubbing down is done by making three or four strokes on one side of the razor edge foremost and then the same number on the other side and using a finer stone than is used for grinding, and holding the razor flat on the stone, so that the edge and the back both touch the stone. It may be necessary then to remove any fine wire edge, and this is best done by drawing the razor across say a wooden matchslick at right angles. Setting is then carried out on a still finer stone, a Turkey oilstone is good, and is performed by holding the razor flat against the stone and making one stroke per side alternately. The pressure should be gradually reduced until merely the weight of the razor only is used. The strokes are given with back of the razor leading, and at the end of the setting, one stroke is generally given on each side with the edge leading, that is pointing in the direction of the blade's travel along the hone. In passing the blade along the hone in any of the above operations such action should also be taken to ensure that each part of the blade gets equal treat ment that is, worked gradually from heel to point. Great care must always be taken to ensure that no grit gets upon the hone. A good hone lubricant is ordinary paraffin oil and plenty of it, do not use vegetable oils, they will probably clog up the hone.

Stropping-this operation is generally carried out by passing the razor across the face of a leather strop, making one stroke each way alternately, and always with the back of the blade leading in the direction of the stroke. Be very careful to avoid any grit, or even dust on the strop, it will without fail damage the razor edge. Opinions differ greatly on strops and stropping. It appears to be agreed that a long strop is best so that a fast and long stroke can be given, but the question of the best time to strop the razor either before or after shaving, or both, is a vexed one, the balance of opinion appears to be in favour of stropping after each shave. In any case stropping must be done equally on both sides of the blade, care being taken never to let the edge lead, and always to keep the strop flat, with the blade flat on the strop. Some hones are sold with instructions to use water only on them, and this should then be adhered to.

To sharpen knives it is necessary to know something of the purpose for which the knife is required. A schoolboy's knife, or one used on similar rough work, is quite unsuitable for a razor type of edge, and which moreover is not wanted. Such a knife should be honed with the blade making an angle with the hone of about 3 to 10 degrees. This will give an edge that will stand up against rough usage. Surgical knives should be honed in the same manner as razors, and to get as fine an edge the section of the blade will allow. It should be clearly realised that for fine cutting it is absolutely necessary to get the cross section of the cutting edge of any instrument of as acute an angle as ever possible, with the sides of the metal forming the angle as smooth as possible, so as to reduce the friction of entry into or through the material being cut. This of necessity involves the use of a very highly hardened steel, and which with such an acute cutting edge cannot stand much rough work, clearly therefore knives for rough hard work must be given more obtuse cutting edges, from which it follows that such a knife cannot cut so easily and sweetly as the more acute edged knife. The matter has to be a compromise between ease of cutting and durability of edge. Razors appear to differ considerably in their behaviour, even those of the same make, at the same price. In many cases this is probably the result of slightly different steel, or of different tempering.

Scissors should be opened as widely as possible and drawn from heel to toe over the stone or hone, slightly tilted to the stone, say at about 80° for ordinary work, and about 85° or slightly more for metal work. A rough stone might be used first -followed by a finer one. Great care must be taken to keep the same angle right through the strokes, and finally the blade may be drawn once or twice on the flat across the stone, but see that no rounding of the edge takes place.

Wood chisels, if chipped on the edge, should be ground on a wet grindstone, care being taken to keep to the same angle of metal, not to get the metal too hot, and not to grind at all on the flat side. The chisel having been ground to a straight-edge should now be held with the bevel side downwards, at the correct angle on an oilstone, and the edge worked up by giving the chisel a to and fro movement along the oilstone. If care be taken to maintain a constant angle between the chisel and the oilstone, while describing this motion a fine edge will be obtained. A few strokes should then be given with the chisel held quite flat on the oilstone. Great care must be taken never to let the edge alone rest on the oilstone when making these flat strokes. The to and fro motion on the bevel side may with advantage be varied with a circular movement from time to time. The chisel will cut best when the edge is very keen and smooth and the angle of the bevel portion acute.