Pyramids are natural air circulators; however, to further aid circulation inside I would suggest that floors be built at any height but constructed decking with one-by- fours placed at one-inch intervals to allow air to circulate freely.

With regard to sheathing materials, I would recommend fiberglass or glass. I covered my prototype pyramid with 6 mm plastic, which later proved unable to withstand sunlight or severe weather conditions. I have replaced the plastic with strong, 4 mm fiberglass. Because Canadian winters are so cold, I have also added a layer of plastic four inches inside the fiberglass sheath, thus providing a four-inch air space which has cut down heat loss dramatically. I'll probably have to add one more "skin" of plastic four inches behind the first plastic insulating skin also. Having an air space between the fiberglass sheathing and the first plastic skin serves as an insulator and forces warm air up through the space between the two layers. I should be able to achieve an even, efficient draft-free heating system, with more practice.

In warm climates glass can be adapted readily as sheathing material, but in severe winter conditions--including hailstorms with hail as large as golf balls would make utilization of glass impractical. In that case, fiberglass [and an inner insulating layer of plastic] is the ideal covering.

In contrast to winter's cold, one must consider summer heat. To provide adequate ventilation in summer I would suggest incorporating eight opening windows (two on each face) at the pyramid's peak and a set of doors (one on each face) at ground level. Such an arrangement allows ample air circulation and provides the option of closing doors or windows threatened by drafty conditions which are detrimental to plant growth.

It is not necessary to build doors and windows precisely into the slopes of the pyramid as I have done. They can as an alternative be built dormer-style as long as they do not interfere or break into the pyramid's natural lines. Such interference would break the pyramid's energy circuit, resulting in little or no growing performance of plants inside. You can build onto your pyramid such structures as lean-to's, dormers or entrances so long as you do not break the basic outline of the pyramid structure. The same principle applies inside. Floors, stairs or shelves may be added so long as they do not break the continuity of the outside walls.

As mentioned previously, the pyramid's ground floor need not be watered only if it is placed directly on and covers the ground, having no "floor." In the case of a pyramid placed as a roof over a basement apartment, naturally, every floor would require watering.

Your pyramid should not be built near transformers, generators or powerlines, for these objects will severely affect its performance. Electrical wiring installed within the pyramid itself, however, will give out a magnetic field which can prove beneficial to the pyramid's performance if you learn how to adapt and which plants to adapt to it. Those desiring to play music to their plants (and I have found this to be beneficial to plant growth) will find the use of tapes more satisfactory than a radio. Radio waves are interfered with inside a pyramid to such an extent that a radio will not perform adequately.

With regard to cost, my 30-foot, prototype pyramid cost approximately $6,000 (1974 Canadian dollars). I did the work on the pyramid myself with the aid of a helper. My cost reflects an allowance for paying the helper but allots nothing for my labor. Costs have increased to perhaps $8,500 (1978) today for the same materials and labor. Such costs do not include purchase of heating, a water pump or secondary plastic "skins." In addition, fiberglass nor glass frames and sheathing costs were not included. In general, one should plan on a fiberglass model as the optimal choice, with a layer of plastic attached to the inside of the two-by-four studs as your insulating layer also.

Another consideration to make before building your pyramid is the weight that additional first, second or even, third stories will be required to carry. Allow for more than enough support for the first floor as the rule of thumb, because additional support will also be required for second floor and for any succeeding floors beyond the second. And don't forget to add in the weigh of planting boxes and soil. (It should be noted that second floor consideration is not applicable to a 16-foot pyramid heretofore used for illustration. Only when a second floor proves to be of functional value need it be considered in building plans, namely, with a base of 27 feet or more.)