This section is from the "A Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods" book, by George S. Cole. Also available from Amazon: A complete dictionary of dry goods and history of silk, cotton, linen, wool and other fibrous substances,: Including a full explanation of the modern processes ... together with various useful tables.
Gobelin Dress Fabric. A kind of large brocade, woven of wool and silk mixed. One of the peculiar features of this material is the peculiar coloring of them, which is always done in faded, delicate shades. The woven-in patterns are technically so perfect as to appear like embroidered work, while the ground of the fabric resembles the well-known Turkish shawl pattern. Multi-colored silk threads in relief closely cover the surface, which is intersected by large velvet or moire stripes. [See Gobelin Tapestry].