This section is from the "A Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods" book, by George S. Cole. Also available from Amazon: A complete dictionary of dry goods and history of silk, cotton, linen, wool and other fibrous substances,: Including a full explanation of the modern processes ... together with various useful tables.
Guipure (Ge-Pure'). A French word signifying vellum lace. "Vellum" means " parchment," and parchment is sheep-skin, tanned and bleached white fit for writing or printing on. " Cartisane " is another French word signifying a long thin strip of parchment or vellum rolled round and completely covered with twisted silk. To produce Guipure lace, the old French lace-makers first formed the outlines of the intended pattern of these car-tisanes, they being held together at various points by stitches called "brides " or "bars," worked with the needle. These minute cords or car-tisanes were either arranged so as to touch one another, and be sewed together often enough for solidity, or were attached in the form of a figure by the "brides." In later use the term guipure is applied to lace made in imitation of the ancient guipure, hence to any lace having no ground or mesh, but maintained by brides only; in this sense used very loosely. Cluny guipure siginifies modern lace or passamenterie, imitating that of the 16th century, having a formal and even geometrical design and usually of rather large pattern. The term is applied to such work whether hand-made or machine-made. [See Lace]