This section is from the "Encyclopedia Of Practical Receipts And Processes" book, by William B. Dick. Also available from Amazon: Dick's encyclopedia of practical receipts and processes.
Pomatums or Pomades. Any scented greasy matter of appropriate consistence, or any mixture of fats, used, or intended to be used, in dressing the hair, now commonly passes under the name of pomatum or pomade. The usual basis of ordinary pomatum or pomade for use in this climate, is either a mixture of 2 parts of hog's lard and 1 part of beef suet; or of 5 parts of lard and 2 parts of mutton suet; the fats being both previously carefully rendered or pre-pared, and then melted together by a gentle heat. The latter mixture is chiefly used for white pomatum or pomade. Essential oil, and other volatile matter used to scent this fat, should be added to it and stirred up with it, after it has somewhat cooled, but before it begins to solidify, in order to prevent loss. The unscented mixed fats form the plain pomade or pomatum of the perfumers. (Cooley.)
1253. To Purify Suet or Lard for Making Pomades. Suet or lard form the body of pomades ; and that their quality may be unexceptionable, the rendered suet must be subjected to a purifying process, in order to fit it for use in perfumery. This is done by melting the rendered fat by the heat of a saline or steam bath in an enameled iron vessel, and adding to it, gradually, 1 ounce powdered alum and 2 ounces chloride of sodium (pure table salt) to every fifty pounds of fat under treatment. • The heat is to be continued above
212° Fahr., until scum ceases to rise to the surface, which contaius all the organic and other impurities, and must be skimmed off as fast as it is formed. The fat is then strained through bolting cloth into clean stone jars, and left to cool. It is next to be spread upon a circular stone slab, the top surface of which is slanting from the centre, (that is, slightly conical in form), and provided with a stone roller which is made to revolve by suitable gearing. As the roller, or muller, revolves over the fat, cold water is allowed to trickle upon it, and this dissolves the saline impurities remaining in the fat. After this the fat is heated until all water is expelled by evaporation. When cold, the fat will be found to be very white and pure, and in a condition to preserve its sweet-ness, and suitable for use with the most delicate odors.
1254. Method of Purifying Fat. Take 1 cwt. of perfectly fresh grease, either of lard or beef suet; cut the grease into small pieces, and pound it well in a mortar; when it is well crushed, wash it with water repeatedly, until, in fact, the water is as clear after withdrawing the grease as before it was put in. The grease has now to be melted over a slow fire, adding thereto about 3 ounces crystallized alum in powder, and a handful of common salt; now let the grease boil, but allow it to bubble for a few seconds only; then strain the grease through fine linen into a deep pan, and allow it to stand, to clear itself from all impurities, for about 2 hours. The clear grease is then again to be put into the pan, over a bright fire, adding thereto about 3 or 4 quarts rose water, and about 5 ounces powdered gum benzoin; it is allowed to boil gently, and all scum that rises is to be removed, until it ceases to be produced; finally the grease is put into deep pans, and when cold taken carefully off the sedimentary water; it is then fit for use, and may be kept for an indefinite period, without change or turning rancid. It will be observed that the principal feature in this process is the use of benzoin.
 
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