Budding. Is the insertion of a bud, taken from one tree, into the bark of another; and, as in grafting, the operation will not succeed unless the bud and the tree to which it is united are varieties of the same species, or genera of the same natural family. In fact, the only difference between grafting and budding - the principle of each being the same - is that in the former a shoot, or as it is technically termed a scion, is inserted the stock or stem that is grafted; and In the latter a bud, which is simply a scion in embryo. The latter part of June, the month of July, and on to the middle of August, is the best season for budding. When you perceive the buds well formed in the axilla of the leaf, that is, between the foot-stalk of the leaf and the stem, and when the bark of the stalk can be freely and easily raised from the wood, then you have a sure criterion that you may safely commence to bud. Select a smooth part of the stock at the height you wish, and the side least exposed to the sun; with your budding-knife make a horizontal cut across the bark through to the wood, but not deeper; from the centre of this cross-cut make another of a similar kind, perpendicularly downwards, about an inch, or rather more, in length - these two cuts will be in the form of a T. Then proceed to take off the bud - or as it is technically termed, the shield - first, cutting off the leaf, but leaving a part of the leafstalk. The shield must be carefully sliced out of the stem at one cut. (Figures a and b represent the stem and shield after their separation). A portion of the wood must be taken off with, and attached to, the shield; the greater part of this wood must be carefully picked out, but it is essential that a portion should be left at the back of the bud - if you do not do so, but make a hole through the shield at the eye, or root of the bud, you may throw it away as useless. Then, with the handle of the budding-knife, separate and turn back the bark from the stock on each side of the perpendicular cut (it will then resemble figure d), and insert the shield close to the wood, and between it and the turned-back bark. Cut off the top part of the shield horizontally (in the direction of the dotted line c), and fit the remaining upper-part of the shield accurately, and closely, to the cross-cut in the stock - on this close contact of the two barks the success of the operation principally depends. You must now lay down the turned-back bark over the shield, and with a worsted thread, or bit of bass, bind it down, leaving the point of the bud clear. (Figure e represents the bud in the stock previous to its being bound). A friend informs us that he uses common adhesive plaster for binding, and that it answers admirably. If the weather be very warm, a handful of damp moss should be loosely tied over all, leaving, as before, the point of the bud exposed. In about a month, or six weeks, the ties may be removed; and, to throw the whole strength of the plant into the bud, all shoots must be cut off, and suckers, whenever they make their appearance, carefully eradicated. By budding, you may produce several kinds of roses upon the same plant. The more tender exotic roses would scarcely.exist in this country if they were not budded on our mora hardy kinds. Indeed, it is now generally acknowledged that all roses bloom finer, and last longer, when budded on the com mon wild rose. Budding is also extremely useful for filling up the vacancies which so frequently occur in peach and apricot trees, when trained to walls, by branches dying. Variegated shrubs, as holly, etc, are propagated by budding on the plain kinds.

Budding 288