Roses (Propagation Of). Roses require a strong, loamy soil, and the deeper it is the better, if the subsoil be dry. Where the ground is not naturally rich, a quantity of rotten manure should be added to it, and, every spring, manure forked in about the plants. Rosea are propagated chiefly by cuttings, layers, and buds. Cuttings of the hardy kinds of roses, such as the hybrids of the Chinese and Bourbon, the Boursault, Ayrshire, Evergreen, Multiflora, and the Hybrid Perpetual, may be struck in the open ground. The best time is in autumn, just before the fall of the leaf. The cutting may be from nine inches to a foot in length, and should be taken off close to the old wood, with what gardeners term, a heel. Fig. 1 represents a cutting ready for planting, a is the heel. When the cutting is planted, two or three eyes should be left above the ground. If you have a quantity, they may be inserted about an inch apart, and a few small boughs, or fern fronds, stuck in amongst them, as a shelter from sun and frost. In spring, those that have not struck root, should be pulled out; and in autumn, those which have succeeded may be transplanted to where it is intended they are to flower. Cuttings of the more tender kinds - as the Bourbon, Noisette, Chinese, and Tea-scented, should be placed under a hand-glass. The glass should be occasionally lifted on fine days, to admit air, and dry the soil; any decayed leaves or cuttings should at such times be removed ; water will seldom be required till the spring. About April these cuttings will have rooted; they should then be taken up, potted singly, and removed to a frame, or a close shaded room, for a few days. Such as are intended to be grown in the open air should be planted out in May. Roses grown as dwarfs, or bushes, are the kinds most generally layered. The soil about the plant should first be loosened ; the , selecting a good shoot, strip off a few leaves at a distance varying from six inches to two feet from the point of the shoot (see fig. 2 a a) ; then, taking the shoot in the left-hand, insert a sharp knife just behind an eye, at b, on the upper side of the shoot, and pass it evenly and carefully upwards, cutting about half through the shoot, and for an inch and a half or two inches in length. Bend down the stout, so that you may see the proper place to bury it; then Open a hole, press the shoot into it, peg it down two or three inches beneath the sur-face, and cover with the soil. It is well to twist the shoot a little alter the cut is made, so that the end of the tongue, b, from which the roots will be emitted, may have a downward direction when in the ground. It is also a good plan to split the tongue, and keep the split open by inserting a small stone in it. Each layer should be tied to a email stake, c, to prevent its being agitated by the wind. June, July, and August, are the best months for layering ; if the weather be dry, the layers should be watered. About November they will be ready to be taken from the parent plants, by cutting them off within two inches from the tongue; then transplant them to wherever they are intended to flower. In spring they should be pruned down to three or four eyes some of them will bloom the same summer or autumn. Standard roses are well-known ornaments of the garden ; they look well in any position, but appear to the greatest advantage when planted in opposite and parallel lines in the centre of two beds, one on each side of a central or principal walk. In pruning, the young shoots should be annually shortened to about two or three inches from the point they started from ; and if the head should become too large and straggling, some of the old wood should be cut out, and its place supplied by young shoots, which spring from the centre; keeping in view, as you prune, that the beauty of a standard consists principally in its having a round compact head, so as to present a favourable appearance when seen from any side. Weeping roses form beautiful objects when planted singly on lawns; they are roses of a pendulous habit, such as the Ayrshire and Evergreen, budded on stocks four feet and up-wards in height. The main shoots ought not be shortened, after the second year, until they reach the earth: prune the laterals only, and flowers will be produced all along the branches from the head to the ground. When they attain their lull size, a hoop, as in fig. 3, should be attached, to prevent the branches being injured by the wind. Fig. 3 represents a weeping rose of full growth, without leaves, to show how it should be trained and pruned.

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