Coating for Bathrooms

As a rule cement plastering, as well as oil paint, suffices for the protection of walls and ceilings in bathrooms, but attention must be called to the destructive action of medicinal admixtures. For such rooms as well as for laboratories, an application of Swedish wood tar, made into a flowing consistency with a little oil of turpentine and put on hot, has been found very excellent. It is of advantage previously to warm the wall slightly. To the second coat add some wax. A very durable coating is obtained, which looks so pleasing that it is only necessary to draw some stripes with a darker paint so as to divide the surface into fields.

To Paint Over Fresh Cement

The wall should be washed with dilute sulphuric acid several days before painting. This will change the surplus caustic lime to sulphate of lime or gypsum. The acid should be about one-half chamber acid and one-half water. This should be repeated before painting, and a coat of raw linseed oil flowed on freely should be given for the first coat. While this cannot be always guaranteed as effectual for making the paint hold, it is the best method our correspondent has heard of for the purpose, and is worth trying when it is absolutely necessary to paint over fresh cement.

Coating For Damp Walls

Thirty parts of tin are dissolved in 40 parts of hydrochloric acid, and 30 parts of sal ammoniac are added. A powder composed of freestone, 50 parts; zinc oxide, 20 parts; pounded glass, 15 parts; powdered marble, 10 parts; and calcined magnesia, 5 parts, is prepared, and made into a paste with the liquid above mentioned. Coloring matter may be added. The composition may be used as a damp-proof coating for walls, or for repairing stonework, or for molding statues or ornaments.

Façade Paint

For this zinc oxide is especially adapted, prepared with size or casein. Any desired earth colors may also be added. The surfaces are coated 3 times with this mass. After the third application is dry, put on a single coating of zinc chloride solution of 30° Bé. to which 3 per cent borax is added.

This coating is very solid, can be washed, and is not injured by hydrogen sulphide.

Hard-Finished Walls

The treatment for hard-finished walls which are to be painted in flat colors is to prime with a thin coat of lead and oil well brushed into the wall. Next put on a thin coat of glue size; next a coat mixed with 1/3 oil and 2/3 turpentine; next a coat of flat paint mixed with turpentine. If you use any dry pigment mix it stiff in oil and thin with turps. If in either case the paint dries too fast, and is liable to show laps, put a little glycerine in, to retard the drying.