This section is from the "Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas Recipes Processes" encyclopedia, by Norman W. Henley and others.
In making cologne water, the alcohol used should be that obtained from the distillation of wine, provided a first-class article is desired. It is possible, of course, to make a good cologne with very highly rectified and deodorized corn or potato spirits, but the product never equals that made from wine spirits. Possibly the reason for this lies in the fact that the latter always contains a varying amount of oenanthic ether.
Oil of bergamot. . 10 parts
Oil of neroli...... 15 parts
Oil of citron...... 5 parts
Oil of cedrat..... 5 parts
Oil of rosemary.. . 1 part
Tincture of ambergris ........ 5 parts
Tincture of benzoin .......... 5 parts
Alcohol......... 1,000 parts
The following is stated to be the "original" formula:
Oil of bergamot. 96 parts
Oil of citron .... 96 parts
Oil of cedrat.... 96 parts
Oil of rosemary. 48 parts
Oil of neroli..... 48 parts
Oil of lavender. . 48 parts Oil of cavella.... 24 parts Absolute alcohol. 1,000 parts Spirit of rosemary.........25,000 parts
Alcohol, 90 per cent..........5,000 parts
Bergamot oil..... 220 parts
Lemon oil....... 75 parts
Neroli oil........ 20 parts
Rosemary oil..... 5 parts
Lavender oil,
French........ 5 parts
The oils are well dissolved in spirit and left alone for a few days with frequent shaking. Next add about 40 parts of acetic acid and filter after a while.
Alcohol, 90 per cent..........5,000 parts
Lavender oil, French........ 35 parts
Lemon oil....... 30 parts
Portugallo oil.... 30 parts
Neroli oil........ 15 parts
Bergamot oil..... 15 parts
Petit grain oil.... 4 parts
Rosemary oil..... 4 parts
Orange water. . .. 700 parts
 
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