Boots, especially top-boots, to look well, to be easily cleaned and to wear long, should be put on trees immediately after use. The surface should then be cleaned with a hard brush, and if necessary with a sponge or water-brush and a little warm water. When thus made wet, or if they are already damp, the boots should be put away on their trees to dry; because it will be impossible to polish them as long as they are in a moist condition. When all dirt has been removed and the boots are dry, a coating of blacking as thin as possible should be applied, and the boots polished while the blacking on them is still damp. Boots that are in use should be boned at least once a week, and if possible immediately they are taken off the feet; because at that time the leather is soft and pliable by reason of the heat and warmth of the feet. Bottle blacking is better than cake blacking; because it can be put on thinner and more evenly. When cake blacking is used, boots as a rule will require to be frequently washed; because, in this case, the blacking will be apt to cake in irregular lumps on the boots. Boning makes the surface of the leather smooth and compact, and takes out creases.

A little glycerine rubbed into the boots occasionally, helps to soften and preserve the leather, and it also improves the polish.

In the cleaning of top-boots it is a great convenience to have the tops detachable. If they be fixed, the tops will have to be protected while the black leather is being cleaned; and the black leather, while the tops are being dressed. This protection is usually obtained by means of paper, which in one case is placed over the top and is doubled under its lower end; and in the other case, it is put round the upper part of the black leather, and between it and the top.

For blacking boots, a hard brush, a blacking brush and a shining brush are required. There is very little difference between the two last mentioned brushes.