This section is from the book "How To Build Games And Toys", by B. W. Pelton. Also available from Amazon: How To Build Games And Toys.
As the middle-aged child approaches adolescence, his, and to some extent, her interest in games increases in direct proportion to improved dexterity, which in turn sharpens the urge to excel. Like toys, many presently popular games masquerading in modern dress are in reality of great antiquity. Originally conceived as tests of individual abilities, they have developed down the years into contests between two or more players. The application of more formal rules has changed these personalized bouts into games accommodating a varying number of contestants. In many cases, however, it will be found that the secret of sustained interest lies in the ability to make comparatively simple amendments to existing rules, thus multiplying the usefulness of a single game to an astonishing degree.
It goes without saying that, for children, the playing rules should be simple and easy to apply. For example, the question of how many balls, beanbags, darts, rings, or kernels of corn are to be rolled, thrown, lobbed or tossed, should not only be painlessly determined by the number of missiles or counters available to a given number of players, but by the anticipated dexterities of the contestants as a group. For the same reason the throwing, flipping, or "lagging" distance, which is usually marked by a "balk," "taw," or "foul line," should be tailored to fit the group's playing abilities. In like manner the target may be designed as a simple test of skill, or to combine skill with elementary mathematics such as plus and minus values, or the element of chance may be introduced by means of easily recognizable penalties or forfeits, which are referred to in the paragraph on "Scoring."
While it is true that not all games are aimed at definite targets, a majority depend upon some sort of board or playing surface, be it a smooth, polished shuffleboard or bowling alley, or a cardboard or beaver-board surface for checkers or small counters which are advanced at the spin of an arrow or the roll of dice. The decision as to the kind of material to be used for a board or target will naturally be determined by the type of "men" or missiles it must carry or withstand. In the case of pointed darts, for example, a slab of cork is the ideal solution, but a piece of soft wallboard such as Cellotex will prove satisfactory for a limited period, as will one or more lengths of soft pine, or even several layers of corrugated cardboard, smooth side out. On the other hand, darts equipped with vacuum cupped tips will cling best to a smooth surface such as Masonite hardboard, and a slingshot target may have to be cut from heavy tin or galvanized iron. For tossing or lagging games, the horizontal targets may be made up from almost any available material, including Tollable oilcloth, or even uncreased wrapping or shelf paper, on which large numbers cut from a calendar can be pasted in the various scoring squares, circles, or segments.
Early in the construction process, the amateur gamecrafter will come to realize that with but very slight alterations, most horizontal and vertical game targets can be made interchangeable. For example, an interesting game results when almost any type of hanging dart board is laid flat on the floor. Instead of attempting to loft darts onto the horizontal game board, however, metal washers or wooden checkers can be tossed or lagged at it. Conversely a prone target can be hung on a wall or tilted against a chair-back as a target for darts; or it can be studded with pegs, nails, or L-shaped hooks to catch rings such as the rubber circles used to seal masor jar caps. Best of all, it will seldom be necessary to modify the scoring procedure.
Whether the game is based solely upon skill or is dependent upon luck in throwing dice, spinning a pointer, or drawing cards, the players' interest can be maintained over longer periods by varying the rules of scoring. Obviously the most difficult spots to ring, pierce, or roll into should be awarded the bonus scores. It therefore follows that in order to confer due prestige upon the winner, these bonuses or high-scoring areas should be sufficiently protected or "trapped" to render their achievement difficult— yet not so impossible as are the allegedly valuable prizes tantalizingly displayed in carnival booths.
There are at least three quick methods for completely changing a simple, numbered skill game of eye-hand coordination and muscular control, without modifying the equipment. One way is to add the hazard of plus and minus valuations, as for example the red (plus) squares and the black (minus) squares on a numbered checkerboard when pitching pennies. Another method is to convert a high score game into a low score game like golf, with the winner making the fewest "strokes" or lowest score. The third method, which requires each number to be played in sequence before advancing to the next highest, will place a premium on skill and patience.
The introduction of a series of penalties, obstacles, or forfeits will add the zest of uncertainty to any type of game, by intruding the possibility of a sudden reversal in the fortunes of the highest or lowest scorers, or both. These traps may reduce an accumulated score by a fixed number of points, wipe it out entirely, forfeit a turn or turns, raise a delaying obstacle, or provide for sudden advances. The game of Parchesi includes examples of these penalties and prizes, which must be clearly marked to avoid confusion.
Along with the distance and size of the target in games of skill, the scoring method must also be adjusted to conform to the age group or abilities of the contestants. Although simple addition, subtraction, and even multiplication are painless teaching aids, their value deteriorates the moment their difficulty requires the recruiting of an older scorekeeper. Elementary spelling can be introduced into skill games without recourse to anesthetics by using letters of the alphabet instead of numbers, with appropriate rewards for three, four, and five-letter words spelled out in successive plays. Again it is emphasized that the younger the player the warmer will be the response to bright colors, because games are supposed to be played for fun, and fun is colorful.
It should be apparent, therefore, that in the construction of games, a nice discrimination must be exercised to fit the abilities of the players whom it is desired to interest. If the game is too easy, interest will flag. On the other hand, too difficult a game will destroy the hope of winning, and in the case of very young players, encourage the deadly "give-up" spirit bred by frustration.
Recognizing the fact that even skilled lathe operators are prone to shrink from the meticulous exactitude demanded to turn out perfectly proportioned wooden balls, the games described in this chapter employ balls or disks which may be on hand from other games such as tennis, handball, golf, ping-pong, golf, marbles, and the like, or which may be obtained from the nearest ten-cent store. In this way games designed for adult players or large areas are easy to scale down to fit small players and restricted quarters, with perhaps a few minor amendments to the rules.
To facilitate calculations for constructing game boards and targets, the following table lists the diameters of several balls and disks commonly available from other games:
Type of ball or disk | Diameter |
Checkers | 1 in. (average) |
Marbles | up to 1 in. |
Ball bearings | various |
Center from an old golf ball | 11/8in. (average) |
Ping-pong ball | 11/2 in. |
Golf ball | 1.62 in. |
Handball | 17/8 in. |
Tennis ball | 21/2 in. |
Lacrosse ball | 2 1/2 in. |
Baseball, hard | 2.6 in. |
Ice hockey puck | 3 in. |
Polo ball | 3 1/4 in. |
Baseball, soft | 34/5 to 43/4 in. |
Croquet ball | 33/8 in. |
Bowling ball, duck pins | 41/2 in. (maximum) |
 
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