This section is from the book "Cassell's Cyclopaedia Of Mechanics", by Paul N. Hasluck. Also available from Amazon: Cassell's Cyclopaedia Of Mechanics.
It is supposed that a phaeton is to be repainted black and picked out in red, and then varnished. If the paint is cracked very much, the best plan will be to remove it by means of a gas jet or burning lamp and an old plane-iron. The vehicle may then be tilled up and painted. If the paint has only cracked through the varnish, rub it down to the colour with pumice stone and water, then clean off thoroughly and give a coat of colour made of tub white lead and a small portion of driers and lampblack, mixed stiff with raw linseed oil and thinned down with turps; this should dry in about ten hours, but should be allowed to stand a day longer to get hard. In the meantime the wheels, under carriage, etc., should be well rubbed down with glasspaper, and a coat of lead colour applied as above. Any holes or dents in the body should now be filled with a stopper made of dry white lead, gold size, and black japan, beaten up stiff with a mallet or hammer; and the wheels, carriage, and shafts puttied up where required, and afterwards lightly sandpapered off.
The body, when the stopper is hard, is faced over very lightly with pumice stone and water to take out the brush marks in the lead colour, after which the whole is given a coat of ground drop black, thinned with turps and varnish; this should dry in about four hours. Then add a good drop of black japan to some of the dead black previously used, and give another coat; let this stand for a day, then give a good hard sponging off, ready for the first coat of japan. If the work is to be finished in a first-class manner, a second coat of japan is necessary : but before applying this the first coat must be flatted down with pumice dust and water on a pad of cloth to remove any nibs which may exist, and to make a dull surface for the next coat, as if two coats were put on without flatting the top coat would "ciss" up and spoil it. If only one coat of japan is given, the carriage, etc., will now be ready for lining out; for this, camel- or sable-hair pencils, called fine-liners, and picking-out pencils are used. The colour (vermilion) should be mixed in a small dipper with gold size or varnish to a creamy thickness. Another small pot contains clear turps.
The pencil is dipped into the turps, then into the colour, and worked up on the palette; then, holding the pencil between the forefinger and thumb, and using the other fingers as guides, line out as required. When dry, well clean the whole with a sponge, and give the underworks and wheels a light coat of carriage varnish, and the body a coat of under-coating body varnish. After standing two days, well flat the whole as the japan was done, being careful to get out every particle of pumice dust from the corners and crevices, using water freely; then thoroughly dry off, and give the body a good full coat of finishing body varnish, and the undercarriage, etc., a coat of pal • carriage varnish, putting sufficient on to obtain a good finish without getting runs. To make a successful job, the carriage should be done in a light, roomy place, free from draughts, and kept at a temperature of about 75° F
 
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