Sawhorse (Fig. 6-1) requires four 2' lengths of 11/4" aluminum tube for the legs. The top piece is a 3' length of 2 x 4. Crosspieces are 10" lengths of 2 x 4 fastened to the top piece 3" in from each end. Use two 1/4" carriage bolts, 31/2" or longer for each crosspiece. Recess the heads down 1/4" from the top surface. Drill bolt holes on center line of the top piece 21/2" apart, providing ample clearance for the 11/4" legs.

For drilling the leg holes, position the assembly under the drill by clamping to a 30° fixture as in Fig. 4-56. Cut the 30° blocks for this fixture using the miter gauge and setup in Fig. 4—55.

Figure 6-2 shows dimensions for drilling. Start leg holes 31/8" in from each end and center widthwise. Set depth stop to limit drill travel to about 3/4" into the top piece. Holes should just meet.

Insert tube into wood per instructions accompanying Fig. 4-56. Lock tube in place with a finishing nail. Set completed sawhorse on table top or level floor, and make all four feet touch simultaneously by trimming the longest leg as needed. Add white rubber crutch tips to give saw-horse firm footing.

Extension Switch Rod

A convenient way to operate the "on-off" switch on your power tools is to bring this control to the front of the machine by means of an extension rod like that on the drill press (Fig. 6-3). Set the toggle switch on the motor so that a forward pull turns it on, a push backward shuts it off.

If the arm of the switch does not have a hole in it, flatten the arm out with a hammer and drill a 3/32" diameter hole through the outer end of the arm. Now taper a piece of aluminum clothesline wire so that it can be hooked through the arm as in Fig. 6-3.

Make a guide bracket from 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum bar stock, and fasten it to any convenient part of the machine. Form a loop at the outer end to support the switch rod. Curl up the front end of the switch rod to make a handy finger grip.

Fig. 6-1.

Now a short pull on the rod turns on the motor, a slight push shuts it off . . . . from the front of the tool where it is most convenient to operate. Such an extension switch rod will make almost any power tool easier to use.

Fig. 6-4.

Depth Stop For Portable Drill

Often it ig desirable to predetermine depth of holes accurately when using a portable electric drill. The handy depth stop shown in Fig. 6-4 consists of an 8" length of 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum bar with the two legs bent as shown. Three diameter holes drilled through the top section provide heights ranging from about 12" to above the work surface. To use the depth stop, determine depth of hole desired. Insert wire drill of correct size into the chuck of the tool, and put it through one of the holes in the depth stop. Adjust lengtli of drill protruding from chuck so that drill extends from chuck through the depth stop and on to the depth desired.

To drill deep holes, use the end of the stop. For short holes, use the11/2" end; for medium holes, the center. Cut longer or shorter legs on the depth stop where your particular work requirements dictate.

Tool Racks (Fig. 6-5) made from Vi" x 1" bar stock are particularly useful, as they are easily adapted to hold a wide variety of tools. Take a 4' x 8' panel of perforated Masonite nailed or screwed to a 1/2" or 3/4" plywood panel backing. Seal Masonite panel with shellac, and paint with white enamel. Mount under ceiling trim strip as shown in Fig. 6-6.

Fig. 6-5.

Racks for screwdrivers, socket wrenches, drills, and many other items are made from the 1" bar stock by drilling a hole of size required by the tool and then making saw cuts from the front edge of bar to the holes. Mount bar edgewise to the panel by drilling clearance holes for 2" long finishing nails. Clamp the bar in a vise so you are drilling upward at an angle (see Fig. 2-14). This allows gravity to help remove chips and prevent their becoming jammed at the bottom of hole. Lubricate also.

Fluorescent Overhead Lighting

Workshop lighting can be from the ceiling, as in Fig. 6-6, or just above the workbench and storage shelves, as in Fig. 6-7. A piece of half-round aluminum eaves trough forms lighting fixture and reflector. Each of the units pictured houses two 40-watt fluorescent lamps, ballasts, and starters.

Fig. 6-7.

If ballasts are mounted on the outside of fixture, cut the trough 8'3" long; if mounted inside, cut the trough ll'l" long. Attach friction-type end caps, and lock with sheet-metal screws.

Bolt lamp sockets and starters to the inside of trough, as in Fig. 6-8. Connect with single-conductor insulated — I 4 fixture wire. There are two terminals on each socket and a socket for both ends of each lamp. Wiring is as follows: One side of the 110-volt line goes directly to either terminal of one socket. Connect the other terminal of this same socket to one terminal of the starter. Connect the other terminal of starter to one terminal of the socket at the other end of lamp. Connect the other terminal of this socket to one terminal on the ballast. Connect the other terminal on the ballast to one terminal of the pull-chain switch. The other terminal of the switch goes to the 110-volt line.

Fixtures are mounted with brackets made from 1/8" x 3/4 " bar bent as desired. When riveted to center of end cap (Fig. 6-8), the lamp fixture can be tilted downward for direct lighting as in Fig. 6-7 or upward for indirect lighting where that is preferred.

Toolboxes

An ordinary small toolbox is made with 1/16" x 1" x 1" angle. First make bottom frame 9" x 18", and cut a 1/4" plywood panel to fit it for reinforcing bottom. Bend corners per Fig. 4—37. Make lower box section from a single piece of embossed sheet, 27" x 36" and cut 9" x 9" squares from the four corners per Fig. 3-7. Put 1/2" hem on all four outside edges. Bend up around bottom frame, and rivet through angle and plywood panel. Set second frame 1" below top edge of box, per Fig. 4-51, to support tray. Cut four 81/2" lengths of 1/16" x 1" x 1" angle for the vertical corner posts, position them on the outside, and rivet to the two frames. Make tray per Figs. 9-2, 9-3, 9-4 and 9-5.

The cover is another box section made without the angle frame but with corners locked, per Fig. 4-7, and with edges hemmed. Rivet 1/8" x 3/4" bar around the inside of edge of cover for attaching hinges and latch. Fit a 1/4" plywood panel inside top, and bolt through it to the handle of bent 1/8" bar.

Fig. 7-1.