Shopping Cart (Fig. 7-1) is 12" across the front and 12" on a side so a single sheet of perforated aluminum makes the front and both sides. The cart proper is 221/2' high. Thus a single sheet of plain aluminum is large enough to extend the length of the back, across the bottom, and up to form a flange at the front. Other edges of this sheet are flanged for riveting to the perforated metal.

The top is reinforced by 3/4" bar riveted on the outside of the sheet. Its two ends butt against the handle in hack. A 14" piece cut from a 6' length of 1" bar reinforces the top at the back on the inside. The remainder of the 1" bar forms the handle, extending down the back, across the bottom, and out in front to support the cart upright as shown in Fig. 7-1. A bicycle handlebar grip is cemented to the handle.

The small wheels are from your neighborhood cycle shop. The axle is attached to the cart with straps of 3/4" aluminum bar. The 1" bar for the handle also passes around the axle to help support it.

Stove Vent Hood (Fig. 7-2) measures 3' across the front and 2' deep for the most economical use of material. At the top, the hood is 18" wide and extends 12" out from wall. Vary these dimensions for large or small stove tops. Sloping front and sides of plain or embossed aluminum measure 36" from bottom to top. Front, sides, and top are framed with 1" aluminum angle. To fit the frame, this angle is flattened out to form an angle greater than 90° by the method shown in Fig. 3-22.

One-inch bar reinforces the bottom edge all around. Rivet or bolt the assembly.

Stove Back Board (Fig. 7-3) employs embossed sheet. Aluminum trim strip finishes off the edges. Drill the trim strip at 6" intervals for attaching to wall; then

7-3 use these holes as a guide to drill through aluminum sheet and plaster. See instructions accompanying Fig. 4-3 for installing sheet-metal screws in plaster.

Figure 7-2 shows another style of finishing off a stove hack hoard. Here the craftsman used plain sheet and framed it with 1" bar, matching the vent hood.

Fig. 7-4.

Fig. 7-5.

Window-sill Cover (Fig. 7-4) does not chip or show water or hot-dish marks because it is made of embossed aluminum. Cut a newspaper pattern to fit your particular window sill, extending over the front edge and under as pictured. Paste this pattern on the aluminum sheet, and cut it out with shears. Nail, cement, or screw the sheet in place.

If two pieces are needed to get the length required, join them as in Fig. 4-5 and accompanying instructions. Form the cover over the front of the sill with a rubber mallet. Then bend the front under, and tack it in place.

Fig. 7-6

Sink Work Top (Fig. 7-5), made from plain aluminum sheet, is edged in front with aluminum trim strip. The work top and back shield are made in one piece; the end from another piece. All are cemented in place to avoid any tendency toward "oil-canning" effects. Follow cementing instructions at end of Chap. 4.

Radiator Heat Reflector (Fig. 7-6) employs an embossed aluminum sheet formed and attached to the wall with self-tapping sheet-metal screws as shown. See instructions for installing sheet-metal screws in plaster accompanying Fig. 4-3. Cut width and height to fit your radiator. Aluminum makes an excellent heat reflector.

Cupboard Heat Reflector (Fig. 7-7) prevents heat from stove top from damaging finish of cahinets mounted overhead. Cut a piece of embossed aluminum to fit your cabinet, plus 1/4" for turning up a fold at the front to stiffen this edge. Mount to bottom of cabinet with washers between to form an air space as shown.

Utility Tray (Fig. 7-8) is screwed to inside of sink cabinet panel and uses the space generally wasted between the back of this panel and the sink. It easily accommodates soap, dishcloth, cleaning brushes, and associated items. Lay out pattern (Fig. 7-9) on plain sheet, length according to panel space available.

Fig. 7-9.

Bend as shown in Fig. 7-10, and attach to front panel, which has been loosened from or cut out of sink front. Attach hinges along bottom edge with center line of hinge pins flush with front of panel. Trim top edge of panel to clear opening if necessary. Attach a short length of chain to hold panel when open.

Hot-dish Server (Fig. 7-11) is a compact but highly useful item for bringing food and dishes from the kitchen to the dining room. Make three frames of 1/16" x 1" x 1" angle, each 22" long, but 8", 12", and 18" wide, respectively. Notch and bend corners per Fig. 4-37. Upper two frames can be made from a single piece of angle 6' long. Use splice plates to join ends of frame pieces. Bottom frame requires splicing in an additional section at the back side.

Fig. 7-10.

Cut a panel of 1/2" plywood to fit inside bottom frame, and attach with screws up through angle into bottom of panel. Upper two frames can be used with glass or wood. Use 1" tube for ends, bending up at 60° angle 18" from bottom on 8" or 10" radius and another 60° angle for the handle as shown in Fig. 7-11. See Fig. 4-64 for A-conneetion to handle.

Back support is a single piece of 3/8" rod bent into an A-frame, riveted to back edge of the panel frames at "B," and screwed to back end of foot block at "C." These foot blocks are a 4" length of 2 x 4 with a 1" hole to accommodate the tube frame. Regular casters are also set in these blocks, making the server handy to move around in any direction.