This section is from the book "Do It Yourself With Aluminum. 125 Projects For The Home Craftsman", by G. W. Birdsall. Also available from Amazon: Do It Yourself With Aluminum.
The design shown in Fig. 11-11 is adaptable to a wide variety of sizes. After rutting out a top of 94" plywood, smooth the edge with a rasp and apply 1/4" x 1" bar by attaching one end (see Fig. 4-32) and simply wrapping the bar around the table. Use a rubber or wood mallet to get the desired curvature at bar ends. Join the two bar ends with the dovetail joint (Fig. 4-28) or the lap-type joint (Fig. 4-26 or 27).
The legs will be self-supporting if table top is of two thicknesses of 94" plywood, or use additional plywood blocks at points where legs attach so at least a 11/4" deep hole can be provided for 94" tube legs.
For large-sized tables, use 1" or 1 11/4" tube for legs with correspondingly thicker blocks to provide hole depth required. See instructions for attaching legs accompanying Fig. 4—57.
Fig. 11-12.

The design shown in Fig. 11-11 provides sufficient strength for low stools for children's use in play or watching TV. For added strength, use a 1/8" x 3/4" bar as a stretcher around all four legs.
Magazine Rack (Fig. 11-12) requires two pieces of union-jack perforated sheet 12" x 151/2" for the sides, one 14" x 16" embossed sheet for the center divider, another 7" x 16" embossed sheet for the bottom, two 8" x 12" plain sheets for ends, four 14" lengths of 94" tube for the legs, and a 22" length of 1/4" x 1" bar stock for the handle.
Make top frame first, using 1/16" x 1" x 1" angle to inside dimensions of 71/2" x 15". Cut sides 17" long, ends 9%" long, and saw 45° outside miters at corners. Join at corners with splice plate also cut from 1" angle and riveted as per Fig. 4-35.
Fig. 11-13.

Flange ends of perforated side sheets to fit this frame, and turn a 1/4" flange underneath at the bottom edge. Rivet frame to top of side sheets. Cut end sheets on a center line so they taper from 8" at the top to 7" at the bottom. Turn up a 90° flange 1/4" wide on each sloping side and underneath at the bottom edge. Now rivet frame to top edge of end sheets, being sure flanges overlap the side sheets.
Assemble legs to the structure, using sheet-metal self-tapping screws to hold the assembly as in Fig. 4-80, a cross section of the left front leg.
Hem edges of bottom sheet (Fig. 3-5) so it covers exactly 61/2" x 15", insert it in the structure so it lies on bottom flanges of side and end sheets, and rivet to these flanges. Next flange center divider sheet all around to measure exactly 117/8" x 15". Hem top edge. Rivet end and bottom flanges of divider to end and bottom sheets.
Drill an opening in the center of top end frames for the handle. Enlarge opening with a small saw and file to exactly 1/4" x 1" to take handle. Bend handle to fit, insert in holes, and rivet to end sheets. Polish legs, top frame, and end sheets with steel wool, and apply wax or clear lacquer.
Nesting Tables (Fig. 11-13) are useful as a telephone stand, end table, or eating table for the children watching TV. Cut out the 12" x 18" table top from 3/4" plywood, oak, maple, or just plain pine, and finish it preferably in a dark color to contrast to the bright aluminum 3/8" bar used as legs and brackets. Notice that Part "A" in Fig. 11-14 allows tables to be nested (Fig. 11-13) without damage to table tops.
Cut two A members 125/8" long; two B's 22" long; two C's 50" long. Cut out form block for C's, and bend C's around it. Put 90° bends into B's approximately 2" in from each end so space between outer surfaces is 18", per Fig. 11-14. Now rivet B's to C's, and attach table top with screws up through B's.

Fig. 11-14.
Put two 90° bends in A's about 21/2" in from each end. After bending, A's should just fit between C's as shown. Position A's so they extend out from the table top the same distance as C's, and attach with screws up into the table top.
Unique Room Divider (Fig. 11—15) is exceptionally attractive, although it has more elements and thus takes longer to build than the thin model shown in Fig. 11-18. Referring to item numbers in Fig. 11-16, cut the following materials to sixes specified:
Item 1, tempered Masonite (1/8" thick) 23/4" x 477/8"; item 2, 3/4" plywood 131/8" x 477/8"; item 3, wood 2" x 4" x 131/8", two pieces; item 4, two 1" aluminum tubes 611/2"; item 5, two 1" tubes 62"; item 6, 3/4" plywood 133/4" x 477/8"; item 7, two 3/4" aluminum angles 133/8"; item 8, 1/4-20 x 11/4" round-head machine screws, 23 required; item 9, 94" plywood 147/8" x 477/8"; item 10, two 3/4" angles 141/2"; item 11, tempered Masonite 15" x 477/8"; item 12,3/4lplywood16"x 475/8"; item 13, two 94" angles 495/8"; item 14, two pieces Masonite 155/8" x 175/8"; item 15, two wood 3/4" x 3/4" x 141/4"; item 16, 23 hex nuts %-20; item 17, 94" plywood 175/8" x 475/8"; item 18, two pieces perforated Masonite 145/8" x 245/8"; item 19, 21 round-head wood screws #5 x 5/8"; item 20, 18 round-head wood screws #6 x 1/4"; item 21, six finishing nails 8 penny.

Fig. 11-15.
 
Continue to: