-Age 11-12 Years

We now enter the period of childhood when 1. The eye is accommodated to what is generally called normal vision.

2. The awakening power of the skill of the hand is felt.

3. The child is prepared to do things intelligently, if it sees the use of them, and is willing to devote time and patience to the practice of such things.

But while the majority of children attain normal vision now, a certain number develop slight myopia by overwork at close range - by lacking, in fact, a view for the eye to roam over, and in which to rest.

Thus the girl must be warned against straining the eye, which she is apt to do with her growing knowledge of technique, and that quality of patient industry which makes her willing to devote time and patience to the practice of the needle.

With normal vision we introduce sewing in the same tone' of colour and movements that appeal largely to the awakening skill of hand.

A tucker (Diag. 47) is chosen.

The materials may be white or coloured calico or nainsook. Two pieces are required: the band, 13 inches x I inch; the frill, 26 inches x 1 1/2 inches. Needles, No. 6 "Scientific" betweens. Thread, No. 40 sewing cotton.

Method; - Take the strip 26 inches x 1 /12 inches, make a fold 1/8-inch deep (double) on the long side, and the two short ends, and hem neatly.

Lesson XIV Gathering Stroking And Setting In 49

Diag. 47.

Lay and press firmly down a fold 1/4-inch from the remaining raw edge. Work from right to left and begin on the folded line with a strong back

Lesson XIV Gathering Stroking And Setting In 50

Diag. 48.

Diag. 48A.

stitch. Then begin " gathering " by running or tacking, lifting half of what is passed over (the finer the material the smaller the gather, and vice versa (Diag. 48). Gather up gently, straightening the material above and below the line of gathers, and secure the long end of thread around a strong pin placed at the end (Diag. 48A).

If the running has been sewn regularly, the folds of the gathers will lie beautifully symmetrical, as each fold is placed with the side of a darning needle in under the thumb of the left hand. This is technically called " Stroking " (Diag, 48a).

Lesson XIV Gathering Stroking And Setting In 51

Diag. 48B.

Diag. 48c.

Diag. 48D.

After finishing the stroking, take the pin out and arrange the gathers to fit the band, tacking in vertical position (Diag. 48B).

"Setting-in" has two distinct positions of the needle, i.e. 1. The top of each fold is lifted parallel to the edge of the band

(Diag. 48c).

Diag. 48E.

Diag. 48F.

Lesson XIV Gathering Stroking And Setting In 52

2. The needle is turned up in a slanting position into the band and " set-in." Each set-in stitch appears like a vertical hem stitch, lying between each fold (Diag. 48D).

Diag. 48E shows the position of the gathers over the fingers while being "set in."

The wrong side is hemmed down a little above the "setting-in" of the right side (Diag. 48F).