Making

Shoulder Seam

1.   Take the front and the back and lay the right side of the pressed back shoulder seams directly over the right side of the pressed front shoulder seams, letting the front seams extend.

2.  Be sure that the points at the neck NV and the points near the armseye Q and W exactly meet. Put pins at right angles to the seam at these points and a pin in the center of the shoulder seam. Stitch close to the edge without basting.

3.   Turn the waist inside out and make a flat fell seam. This seam varies in width according to the type of shirt waist. For an average shirt waist 1/4" seam is the accepted width. If the material does not fray and one is in a hurry a second stitching may be made on the right side 1/4" from the first without turning the edge under on the inside. This will give a quicker and an equally satisfactory finish.

Putting in the Sleeve

The sleeve may be sewed with: 1. A flat fell similar to the shoulder seam of the middy. For this method see Fig. 67 A.

2.  A French seam.

3.  A French fell.

Pinning the Band to the Waist

1.  Pin the center of the back of the waist to the point marked the center back of the waist band.

2.  Pin each side seam to the corresponding "balance point," marked on each side of the center of the band.

3.  Pin each center front to each end of the band.

4.  Draw up the basting thread around the waistline to fit the band.

5.  Fasten the ends of the basting thread around the pins at each front.

6.  Adjust the fullness at the waist to the band. See that most of the fullness comes toward the center of the front. On each side of the underarm seam for l 1/2" there should be no fullness.

7.  Adjust the fullness in the back. See that most of the fullness is in the center of the back and that the fullness is evenly divided.

8.  Pin the fullness in place.

Fitting the Shirt Waist

1. Try on the shirt waist and pin together carefully the ends of the band with the lines indicating the waist measure. (See Fig. 76 A.)

2. Pin the line which marks the center front of the right side to the line which marks the center front of the left side. Be sure to have the edges even at the neck. Put three or four pins along the front.

Fig. 75. - Shirt Waist Prepared for Fitting A, One-quarter of waist minus three-quarter inch; B, "balance point." Underarm seam of waist and side seam of skirt meet at this point; C, yoke marked and pinned to waist.

3. Adjust the shoulder seams. See that the sleeve hangs straight over the arm. Adjust the length of the sleeve. Decide on the width of the cuff.

4. Examine the underarm seam. See that the waistline and the band are properly placed.

Fig. 7G. - Shirt Waist Prepared for Fitting (Front view.)

A, One-quarter of waist measure plus 3/4"; B, "balance point"; C, collar turned under; D, connecting points of yoke and waist.

5. Examine the neck. See that the neck line is well rounded and well marked. There should not be any points at the end of the shoulder seams.

6.  Decide upon the front closing.

7.  Decide upon the type of collar.

Making the Waist

After the waist has been examined and any necessary alterations have been made sew the sleeves and underarm seams with a French seam.

Front Closing

1.  Measure from the marked center front on the right side front 2" towards the front edge of the waist. Measure this on the top and on the bottom of the waist and draw a line with the dull end of a scissors.

2.  Fold and crease the line firmly on the right side along the center front line.

3.  Put the edge of the extending 2" on the center front line.

4.  Turn the raw edges under so that both edges are exactly even.

5.  Baste the two folds together 1/2" from the edge.

Left Side Front

Make a 7/8" hem on the inside of the left side front and stitch this in the traced center front line.

To Make Looped Buttonholes (See Fig. 71).

1.  Take 12" of bias banding 1/2" wide and stitch the turned edges together and very close to the edge of the fold.

2.  Divide this into six pieces.

3.  Take one of these pieces and fold it with the cut ends together.

4.  Let the stitching line form the top line. Crease it well.

5.  Turn the center fold toward the inside. The stitching lines will meet and will form a point at the end.

6.  Run a basting thread near the cut edges so as to hold the seams together.

7.  Make the remaining buttonholes like the one just finished.